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    • By George19
      Hello,
      Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
      I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
      I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix?  Separate the  movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
      So the real questions are
      is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'. looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it? had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands? Thank you very much in advance.
      Cheers

    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.
    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.

      View full YouTube video
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    • Suggest that you post in the correct forum which is "watch repair help" or perhaps "chat about watches", because not everyone reads all sections. You can also ask moderator to move you post.
    • There is no other way. Note well, it is a 600m waterproof watch, these are normally built with as single piece cases, quartz or mechanical.
    • Good approach.  I have made a habbit of checking set mech with just the mainplate and stem, fixing faults, rinse and start assembly with stem attached.  I feel more direct control over/ much improved stem installation and results. Good percentage of postings for help are about stem issues, most of which will surprisingly be eliminated if we start assembly with " stem issues solved" approach.  
    • Thanks, and yes, that could very well be the problem! The design definitely seems to leave no room for imperfections! However, I'm happy to say that I just came up with a solution. I'm not a technical guy so I really, truly surprised myself (än är inte undrens tid förbi ). I realized that the case was big enough to insert the movement into the case with the stem attached to the movement, crown unscrewed of course, and then hold the stem with pliers inside the case while screwing back the crown from the outside of the case.
    • Somehow, I missed this one. I have not gone through all the posts. The s/spring hangs from the small bracket behind the movement, red circle; the pendulum and its rod are attached to the s/spring. The crutch fits into a slot in the pendulum. The s/spring and pendulum fitting is similar to a Vienna wall clock, the proper ones not the cheap German type.
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