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    • By George19
      Hello,
      Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
      I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
      I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix?  Separate the  movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
      So the real questions are
      is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'. looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it? had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands? Thank you very much in advance.
      Cheers

    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.
    • By Mark
      In this video I am correcting a few mistakes I made in the Seiko 7S26 service and lubrication series of videos.

      View full YouTube video
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    • I understand that the following doesn't apply to  (all ?) Swiss making, but on contemporary Seiko pinions may not be riveted to wheels. First, no wheel / pinion/ arbor / staff combo is considered to be separable.  On the left is the magic lever reduction wheel, on the right the escape wheel and here things get interesting (for the maniacal), the vi pinion teeth are really really small, but it seems to me they are not riveted? Their diameter is (probably) the same as the central section of the pinion, which has been reduced to reduce mass possibly. Of course the wheels seats against a larger section. Please disregard the dirtiness of the parts pictured, these are just from the scrap bin.  
    • If the slot is only a fraction wider, the two points of contact will be on the opposite corners of the blade on the diagonal of the slot. This causes tensile stress which can cause more damage than a traditional v-shaped blade in the correct size because it evenly grips the full length of the slot.
    • hello to all, Does anyone know when lesson 4 will be open for enrollment? I cant find any info on the WR website about it.
    • Actually that is not true. If the slot is wider there will be no full contact between driver blade and screw, but there will be two shorter points of contact, since these are parallel to the axis of the blade they  not tend to lift the tool, which is good. In addition there will be some friction between the tip of the blade, and the bottom of the slot. As a result, he screw will be driven properly. Compare to a wedge shaped (aka flared) driver. In theory there are always two thin strips of contact, which are as wide as the blade. The down side is that the blade tends to cam out because there the surface asre not paralled are inclined, and there is no friction contact to the bottom. Parallel tip drivers are also somehow common in general mechanic, from small to big sizes. These are usually considered better, and are more expensive.  In the comments of this article https://www.cnccookbook.com/8-brands-to-consider-for-the-worlds-best-screwdriver you can read about paralled, plus JIS and Pozi cross types, which are unknown to many.
    • Send it to replateit.com in Canada. Wonderful work. They know omega. Theyve done dozens for me so far.
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