Now going to tackle my second Seiko repair after fixing a displaced 7S26-C rotor/bearing (posted in another thread). I'm still a newbie at all of this, but learning by watching, reading and doing. I'm really enjoying the work, I wonder why I did not learn this art years ago.
I was given a Seiko 7009-3040 automatic for free. I took a look at it and saw that is had a bent second hand. Closer inspection showed the little [ S ] emblem has been disconnected from the face and is rolling around between the dial and the face (show here resting next to the 4 o’clock position. It was actually in the day/date window hiding at first. After a bit of tapping it came out.
I was thinking it might be not too hard to fix? Separate the movement from the case of course. Then glue the [ S ] emblem back in place on the dial using a very small amount of super glue. I can see two small holes for mounting. Bend the second hand back to straight.
So the real questions are
is super glue OK for this application, I would assume to let the dial stay out of the case for a day or two to protect the rest from 'glue fogging'.
looking a the second hand, I'm almost sure it just might break if I try to straiten it?
had anyone else seen this happen, the emblem falling off and fouling the hands?
Thank you very much in advance.
For movements with capped 3rd and escape wheel pivot jewels like Seikos Orients Rolex etc, which oil should the one for 3rd wheel be lubricated with? Only documentation I can find/have access to for such scenario comes from Seiko and they specify oiling the capped pivot with thin oil, but the uncapped dial side pivot with thick oil. Then again they also specify oiling the pallet pivots so I'm a bit unsure how religiously I want to follow their instructions. What is the commonly accepted practice here? Thin oil or thick oil?
I received the extractor Horetec screw drivers from Esslinger but the tips are too small for the screw head. They’re almost pointed, they’re so small.
What part of the screw should be measured in order to specify the correct extractor screw driver, the width of the shank, the diameter of the head, the height of the screw?
I know this should be elementary but I haven’t had to do this before.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Correction: “Horofix”, not Horotec.
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There was talk tonight at a club I attend of possibly buying a 3D printer. I can think of movement holders and parts trays as obvious choices, but what else might one be useful for in a modern watch workshop? Also if anyone has any experience of them and has 'must haves' and 'must avoids' lists that'd be great!