Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Someone here on the forum tried (for test) isopropyl alcohol on the pallets. After 30 minutes it had little effect on the swiss one and a little bit more effect on the russian one (if you read this post, please confirm).

I DIDN'T TRY  IT YET, but I intend to: clean the pallets in naphta and also with pegwood and rodico and rinse them for a coupple of seconds in alcohool and dry them quikly - they should be fine. Same for the balance wheels.

Using only naphta sometimes leaves a thin layer of oil on the parts that somehow spreads the usefull oil (your expensive Moebius) taking it to unwanted places and leaving the interesting area dry.


For everything else, clean in naphta and rinse (in a more relaxed way) in alcohool.

IMHO, Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, Naptha in the ultra sonic.. hmm, how I would do this is pickup a couple small glass jars, fill them with Naptha, then float them in the ultra sonic full of water..  your controlling the Naptha better this way.. remember, Naptha is a combustable substance..

 

Before I got a refurbished L&R cleaning machine on eBay, I used an ultrasonic, but used L&R cleaning and rinsing solutions. I filled the bottom of the ultrasonic with water and set the jars in the water. The water never went above the middle of the jars! I still do this if I need to rigorously clean something stubborn!

There is a guy called MDean-o on eBay who does a great job refurbishing L&R cleaning machines! I suggest buying on from him and no one else!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/14/2016 at 1:01 PM, JoeJBP said:

Hello,

Has anyone used the Greiner watch cleaning concentrate? I'm wondering what rinse, if any, it requires and how easy it is to acquire the demineralised water?

Joe.

 

I use it. It works well. I rinse in ethanol, though don't leave the pallets in it for too long.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, JoeJBP said:

Thanks. I'm going to give it a go. Still unsure on the rinse though. I've been recommended pure water and pure alcohol!

How do you tell how well rinse has worked?

Joe. 

The rinse can leave stains from the cleaning solution if it's dirty, or can leave stains if it is unpure, eg. minerals in water.

 

I found that a water based rinse led to corrosion on some parts when they didn't dry quickly, hence why I moved to ethanol, plus the ethanol dries very quickly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be careful with alcohol. If the pallet stones are held in place with shellac (most vintage), it will definitely dissolve and soften in alcohol...use One-Dip or naptha (lighter fluid).

 

JC


 

Slide1.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Naphtha works well as a cleaner, but it does not act as a solvent for water, so it will  not work particularly well at removing the Greiner solution as the two liquids will split. I use naphtha for cleaning the balance/balance cock and also any removable end stones though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes that is correct. For main plates and and other parts that are dirty, I use an ultrasonic solution in hot water and brush gently with a toothbrush, rinse, and finish in naptha to displace any hidden water and let dry. Super spiffy clean.d4e58a1284b525cbf0be6d7987ed24fd.jpg

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

Edited by noirrac1j
typo as usual
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, bobm12 said:

Hi Joe,

How did you get the "Free Sample"?

Cheers,

Bob

Eagle-eyed Bob! I got it from the Research Institute where I spend most of my time. They put out tables of stuff for people to try out. Its an excellent cleaning solution, not too smelly, and 2% solution is very effective, so all you need is a small amount to mix in hot water. I use it to clean the watch plates, screws, levers etc. in glass and it rinses completely clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am very new and learning by book, video and this forum. I am getting my materials together and subjects like lubrication and cleaning seem to have a vast spectrum of opinions.

I will start off with a cleaning question, I ran across a thread on another forum where a experienced watchmaker suggested that anyone new to this should hand clean all of their watch movements instead of using a machine like a ultrasonic cleaner. Sounds like a good idea to me, lets you get more personal with the movement.

He suggested lighter fluid and a soft artist brush to clean, and isopropyl alcohol for the rinse. Using sharpened toothpicks to clean the jewels.

Opinions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He suggested lighter fluid and a soft artist brush to clean, and isopropyl alcohol for the rinse. Using sharpened toothpicks to clean the jewels.

That is the way I would also suggest you go about starting. There is nothing out there better then a good proper watch cleaning machine. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the help guys! VWatchie I already found your thread but I'll check it again. Nice to know about acetone, I still have to get the shellac off since I made a little mess. I adjusted the jewel, put new shellac (the so called soldering technique, pallet tool too hot this time so the shellac "wire" melted in air before getting in contact with jewels or fork) rinsed the pallet fork and put it back dry. Amplitude is now in the 240-250 range that I expected in the first place. I guess there's enough oil in the escape wheel teeth already but I'll check that later. The mainspring was pretty beaten so a new one would probably boost the amplitude even further. Nice to learn new things. Now I have another thing to look for while disassembling. I wonder if the watch left the factory that way. 
    • Would be interesting to see it 🙂
    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
×
×
  • Create New...