I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
I know the app is not very accurate.
I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
I am new to watch repair and have mainly been servicing simple eta movements for my own
I have always wanted a chronograph watch and have found a watch based on a valjoux 7750 with a broken case.
I want to put the movement into a new case but the dial is a day date and the movement is date only.
I have sourced all the parts and have fitted them to the movement to add the day function.
The donor watch didn't use a dial washer / foil, do I need to use one now I have added the day indicator?
If I do need a foil, what size and where from?
Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
How do you finish off the parts you don't clean with isopropyl at the end? Do you just let them dry after their first rinse?
Edit: oh wow, just realized I commented on a 5 year old post. Not sure if I can delete.
Maybe the mods could move the post? Probably better than a duplicate post. I'm sure one will chime in when they come across the post.
I'm very new as well, that was one suggestion I saw in a video that was helpful, and much more gentle on the parts. Another thing I've heard which I think applies in this regard is if something feels "off" or like it needs to be forced at all, something is probably wrong, not seated properly, etc and you should stop screwing and go back a step. With the level of precision movements are manufactured to, it should feel just right.
When you were assembling the train wheels did you do so in the order indicated on page 3 of the manual? Reverse order steps 49-35 - if you get the ratchet wheel screw on you should be able to give it a wind by turning the screw to the right.