Jump to content

New Hobbyist


Chuy

Recommended Posts

Hello All from Arizona,

Im new to watch repair, but have done a few minor things on some of my watches. I have changed a crystal, removed debris from a quartz gear, regulated a couple of mechanical movements by trial and error. Nothing serious but I am going to step it up a little and try to re-lume an old Seiko. 

I love mechanical watches and watches in general. Im looking to get into this more seriously now. I have been wanting to attempt a complete movement service on something like a Seiko7S26, or a ETA 2824, or 2836. I might start with a Vostok first, I love those watches but the lume is horrible on them.

I enjoy watching all of the videos on the watch repair channel, I can watch them for hours. Another motivator for me is that we don't have very many watchsmiths here. I had a horrible experience when I dropped off my Marathon GSAR for a service. The watchsmith they sent it to bent the hands and cracked several of the tritium vials. The jewelry store said he was a certified to work on Rolex and the best in town. If a guy like that can get away with that kind of work I know I cant do any worse on my own.

Anyways I will be doing a lot of lurking and reading. Thanks! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome!

I'll second the recommendation for Nicholas Hacko's 7s26 tutorial, I went through it and it helped me a lot. Mark has also hinted that he's putting a video together for that movement. Together, the tutorial and video would be awesome!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...