Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
I was wondering how do the timegrapher phone app's out there compare to a dedicated bench top machine. I'm guessing it's all down to the piezoelectric pickup? I installed tickoprint on my phone the other day. But to get the full features you need to shell out $30, if you then also have to shell out for a piezoelectric mic, then you are almost at the same price point as a cheap chinese bench top machine!
I've made a few watch tools which are available on my thingiverse here.
Simple design movement holders which I like as they're easy to make in online cad software to whatever size you require and hold the movements firmly and no risk of marking them or other damage.
I've just measured some of the generic shepherds crook springs that you can get from Cousins: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/shepherds-hook-springs-wristwatch
Whilst these of course aren't click springs, they do come in a variety of widths ... including the 0.15mm you need. They're also quite large so should give enough material to perhaps adapt / shape for the click spring you need. They're also inexpensive so might be worth a punt if you come up blank through other routes. Just an idea...
Yes the loose pin is a guide pin from a bridge, but from which you have to find out your self.
I'm still pussled about that tube in the jewel, how is it supposed the lubrication comes on to the wheel pivot from the oil cup?