Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
I was wondering how do the timegrapher phone app's out there compare to a dedicated bench top machine. I'm guessing it's all down to the piezoelectric pickup? I installed tickoprint on my phone the other day. But to get the full features you need to shell out $30, if you then also have to shell out for a piezoelectric mic, then you are almost at the same price point as a cheap chinese bench top machine!
I use 3 and 4 jaw chucks, large and small on a "compound lathe". how does a " bezel - chuck" grab a crystol? with a 4 jaw, you invert the jaws and grab the inside so you can cut the outer diameter. do they make chucks for jewelers lathes? vin
Today, we have a big chunk of 1973 in the form of a Timex Viscount automatic day/date.
This repair fought me every step of the way.
It arrived with the winder connected to fresh air, and needed a complete strip down to get everything back in order. The day detent spring was misaligned, the date wheel was misaligned, the winder weight was loose, the thing was filthy both inside and out, and even getting the back off initially was problematic. I probably spent a good half hour simply trying to figure out why the day wheel refused to co-operate before I noticed the spring wasn't actually doing anything when the disk was re-fitted, due to the spring being in the wrong orientation. I suspect it got a good hard knock at some stage, which dislodged a bunch of stuff, possibly due to the frustration of the previous owner, as a result of the day wheel not turning.
Everything is now all back in order, the hands are correctly aligned, the day and date kick over correctly at midnight. It is ticking away with that characteristic Timex chonk-chonk-chonk and winding nicely.
I'm not sure it is going to stay on the hair puller band, I may swap it to something a little more comfortable, as I don't particularly enjoy the bald arm patches look, and my Nordic neanderthal genes mean that my arms are particularly furry.
This is what it looked like when it arrived.
I'll keep it on for today, and regulate it tomorrow once everything has settled down from the surgery, but it is keeping pretty good time so far. The crystal polished up well, but I still need to give the case back a quick whizz with the polishing pad to get rid of some apprentice marks, probably due to some previous owner's attempts to open the thing.
It's, of course, a counterfeit, and not even that well made. Below how a genuine similar one looks like, from Chrono24.
As suggested you should open it not just for curiosity but to check if there is water ingress or battery leaking.
Currently, I try to recondition a 1970 Regency chronograph with a Landeron 248 movement.
Everything is going fine so far. Ordered new mainspring, glass, gasket and pushers as they were a bit stiff. The case itself has been replated as it was also quite worn. I dismantled the whole movement and this is where I have some problem and I would like to ask more experienced members' opinion as I am only a novice.
Straight to the issue, I could not remove the 4th wheel. For me, it seems that the bottom of the 4th wheel pivot was formerly broken but still long enough to sit in the 4th wheel bottom jewel hole. In addition, it looks that a small pipe or so was fitted from the bottom plate to the end of the 4th wheel pinion. And this is the reason that I cannot remove it.
Could it have happened as I detailed above or it is a normal thing? Should I remove it anyway and change the whole 4th wheel or the pinion if I can manage to find a replacement. What can be done? what do you suggest?
After this, I decided to carry on like that and at the end when I will measure the accuracy, it should show some really bad results in case if there is any affection.
And now got to the second issue. So, at the end of the cleaning, I found a small pin in the bottom of the horosolv jar. I managed to find its place. However, I am not quite sure how to fit it again. To be honest, I cannot see its purpose really. From the bottom end, it is underneath the setting lever, and from the top plate also it sticks out hardly any.
Have you got any idea how to solve these problems?
Sorry for the poor quality of the pictures. Hope they help though.
Please detail your answers as I am just a beginner.
Any help is much appreciated.
P.S.: Please ignore the notes on some of the images which are not related to my issues. Thanks.