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    • By deathkei
      I measured my Omega Caliber 1120 through an timegrapher app. (Dial Up, full wind)
      I know the app is not very accurate.

      I checked about +100s/d difference and sharply tilted graph .
      The odd thing is that the bottom part of the graph is not printed every 100+- seconds.(red-colored circle)
      Is this a feature of the timegrapher, or does it indicate abnormal state of movement component?
      Thank you for the comments.
    • By FitOutPost
      Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
      Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
      I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life. 
      For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
      How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?

    • By east3rn
      I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
      I have put the watch on the timegrapher 
      The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
      Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
      Thank you!

    • By Padd
      Hello Everyone,
      Padd here from the UK.
      It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
      Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
      Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
      I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
      I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
      I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
      Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.

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    • That's awesome! I'm going to try that on some of my scrap bin parts and so how it goes. I've already got everything on hand except for the denatured alcohol. I'll have to pick some up on my next run to town. All of what we have now is "good natured alcohol".
    • Not strictly correct. It is indeed the impulse jewel that knocks the pallet out of lock, however once the escape wheel tooth is sliding down the impulse face of the pallet stone it is the pallet that is accelerating the impulse jewel. So both pallet and impulse jewel take it in turns to make each other move.
    • Hmm so OP probably put the new spring fairly close to where the old one was, but the roller is still out of place. When the balance is at rest, with the fork engaged with the roller, fork between the bankings, the balance arms should be perpendicular to a line drawn from escape jewel to balance jewel. They should really realign the roller, then get the hairspring oriented correctly.
    • Right. But looking at the mov't picture from Ranfft's, the pallet sits inline with the cock screw and the balance. And in the OP picture the impulse jewel is inline with the same said reference points. That should make so that the jewel is in the proper position are when the balance in installed, and the watch should at least run anyway.  
    • The next one from my ebay job lot, a 'Gisa Soleure', another Baumgartner 866 based watch, this time with centre seconds, the dial branding is a bit 'naughty'! I assume the 21 is meant to fool you... (note there is no mention of 21 what!, it certainly isn't jewels!) Many watches from the era seem to employ this ruse, and I've seen Ebay listings where these are stated as '21 Jewels' so it is still fooling/conning people today! This one was a little dirty and wouldn't wind, crown would just spin, on opening it up I found the setting lever spring/yoke (single part) was broken so it wouldn't stay in the winding position. With it open I held the sliding clutch and wound it a little, but there was then the telltale slipping noise after a few turns of a broken mainspring. Going through the rest of the batch, I found a Regalia also with a BFG 866, it has a badly damaged case,dial and crystal, so I raided it for its setting lever spring and going barrel. Another note on how clever this movement is in terms of cost down, the four screws securing the top plate, which serves as both train and barrel bridge, also secure the click spring, click spring hold down, balance cock and pallet cock. It does make reassembly a bit more challenging though! After a good clean, strip and reassembly/lubrication, it functions reasonably well (within a minute +/- all positions which will do so far as I am concerned).  The crystal has some light marks, I have some polywatch on the way to attack it with. I didn't need to jazz up the seconds hand on this one as it had a funky one already! I quite like it, the dial is a little squint (only a fraction), but the position is fixed by crown and dial feet, and when I look at others online it looks like they all may have been like this! I could resolve it by removing the dial feet, might do at some point if it bothers me. Just fitted with a new strap today and I'm quite taken with it, but I'll probably re-sell this one at some point.
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