Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
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Hi I just inherited an ascot Krippl watch, it was manufactured in 2009 and was bought ten years ago in a u.k store, although the watch is ten years old all it needed was a battery. The watch is in excellent condition, someone once remarked to me recently the watch looked like cheap crap. I inherited another Swiss watch and the similarities to the ascot is uncanny, both are stainless steel backs and waterproof. The ascot watch was bought in a Lidls store. When I was in Berlin recently I never saw any ascot watches in a Lidl store. It's a pretty robust watch and has got the manufacture date and serial number on it. They are highly collect able as they are sold on e bay which was a complete surprise. So the person I had spoken to recently binned the ascot off didn't know what she was talking about as I did my research !
Hi All I'm a beginner. I've been unusually successful in bringing this AS 1950/51 back to life (just dirty and oily). I now want to polish out the crystal scratches. How do I safely remove the bezel so it's not impacted? I've not done this before. Bezel still twists and looks like there's a plastic ring underneath. Do I just pry at that notch with a screw driver? How do you get it back on? This is not a necessity. So if any risk, I won't attempt it. Thank you Charlie
First, I've watched Mark's video and read lots of webpages on alignment, but I still have a question: I was working on one of my old Seiko's(5139) that I have assembled from three parts watches. I got everything cleaned and the train assembled. I visually looked at the Balance Complete and it looked good. After assembling the train and installing the Balance, it would only swing after I moved it and immediately back to rest. I then looked at the impulse jewel for problems and discovered it was completely missing—not broken but cleanly missing. I had a balance wheel from another balance 5139 that I swapped to the balance cock and hairspring. I carefully aligned the new wheel with the old wheel before removing for the swap. I marked the new wheel with a Sharpie pen to indicate where the collet should be and the resting place of the impulse jewel. I then installed the new wheel in the exact position as the old wheel. I then adjusted for beat errors and the +- condition. Amplitude was about 252. It looked like I had a good runner. I assembled the dial and hands and then it was quickly apparent the watch was galloping and running very fast. In a 60 second period it was running 70 seconds. Also, it would stop on occasion as it appeared to bind. At this point all I can think to do is disassemble the train and visually align the impulse jewel with the pins. Is there another way to align the balance without disassembling the train. It is not a big issue to take it apart, but for future reference I wanted to see if there was a way to align without disassembly. By the way, there is no way to view the jewel and pins—even intense light and high magnification provides no view of the area.. Regards.
I've seen this on a movement with an incorrect jumper spring where the spring action was too weak to snap the wheel into position. On the 1664 the different jumper springs have different part numbers (2571 vs. 2583). Likely the springs (and jumpers) are the same as you say but I'd recommend rechecking just to be sure. You shouldn't have to be reshaping a jumper's profile.