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    • By Padd
      Hello Everyone,
      Padd here from the UK.
      It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
      Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
      Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
      I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
      I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
      I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
      Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.

    • By PJA
      Just in case, I came across this "Watch-O-Scope" software. To those who have a need for it. Also here is an instructional video how to install. I hope it will help somebody here.
    • By maclerche
      I have gotten hold on a Elma Star vibrograf. Does anyone know if you can still buy paper and carbon for this machine?  
       

    • By SteveT
      I was wondering how do the timegrapher phone app's out there compare to a dedicated bench top machine. I'm guessing it's all down to the piezoelectric pickup? I installed tickoprint on my phone the other day. But to get the full features you need to shell out $30, if you then also have to shell out for a piezoelectric mic, then you are almost at the same price point as a cheap chinese bench top machine!
       
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    • I would imagine decreased amplitude if applied to fourth or escape wheel, but i noticed hardly any difference with the 3rd wheel in most cases so i think thick oil would be the proper lubrication here in most cases. My question is  why would Seiko make the distinction between capped and uncapped jewels? Why on the same wheel apply thick oil on the uncapped end and thin oil on the capped end? Is there some rule against applying thick oil to capped jewels that I haven't heard about?
    • Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated! While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?  
    • Good work. You don't need much. Pity suppliers don't sell it in tiny amounts. 
    • Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely. I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc. Cheers!      Rob
    • I'm not sure how up to date that guide is. Pretty much every service manual I come across lubes 4th and escape with thin oil but 3rd with thick oil. Even Seiko agrees, showing thick oil being applied to the uncapped side of the 3rd wheel.
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