Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
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Loctite 648 is very good, and will indeed hold a gear on an arbor. But it needs a certain amount of surface area. I can pretty much assure it won't hold a sweep seconds hand on a pipe. Honestly aside from making a new pipe, solder is the best route. You'll want a good flux, it will get it to flow and hold to the steel hand. Tix is a brand of soft solder and flux that will 100% sure work with steel and brass alloys. I have good luck with regular electrical solder and flux too. I heat the assembled hand and tube on a little brass plate over an alcohol lamp. Put flux and a tiny piece of solder at the joint. Since you're already repainting the heat is a non issue.
Hi Mazboy, The best I've found is either CousinsUK.com (Go to watchparts>Branded>Omega>Case parts and search by Ref Number "145.036". Now the second best has been http://cgi.julesborel.com/ Cousins tells me its a: Glass, Mineral, Omega TN5250 It appears to be a flat mineral crystal. Some of the photos make it look like a domed crystal. Either way genuine is around $60USD: https://tmwatchco.com/product/new-genuine-omega-flightmaster-crystal-145-036/ I wouldn't stuff around with an aftermarket on such a watch unless you are qualified to measure and size one up yourself. Cheers Alexei
Also, for a stronger bond, clean in solvent first.