Hi, my name is Ross. I am a rookie watch enthusiast and I am really puzzled here.
Could someone explain to me what kind of a problem am I facing with my timegrapher?
I do two sets of measurements with the same watch (1 day or 6 days apart) and receive vastly different results - to the point of being completely different from what I observe in real life.
For example, my timegrapher shows that my watch is running fast (or ahead of time), while in real life I observe that it runs 7 seconds per day behind. I even recorded a video about it so you could see it for yourself: https://youtu.be/mhGzf6aLMlY
How should I interpret that? Am I doing anything wrong?
I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
I have put the watch on the timegrapher
The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
Padd here from the UK.
It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.
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Am I missing something? I've never heard of the term "automatic" used in association with any watch that takes a battery... And to answer OPs question, I have ran my watches through the demagnetiser running without any apparent ill effect. But you might want to if you can to stay on the safe side
Hi If using the super glue method buy the cheap stuff from the pound shop pound for five tubes its thin. Or using the domed end of a staking tool punch and closing the hole on to the bush then lightly flatten the protruding bush metal with a flat punch,
Hi First thing to do is read up on three train mechanisms before starting they employ some complex gear work for the strike and the chime not forgetting the auto correction for the chime. To remove the springs one has to let down the power on all the barrels before doing anything. If this is your first attempt at repairing a clock I should get hold of a simple two train strike only to practise on and gain knowledge before doing a three train clock. Cleaning can be done using any branded clock cleaner and a brush, wear rubber gloves , Priory polishes do a good cleaner and not too expensive, Windles clock oil is a good one a good selection of screwdriver, pliers, an eyeglass or loupe for inspection Donald de carles book on clock repairing or brian loomes book or laurie penman all available on the net as are the tools, you may need a spring removal tool to get the springs out of the barrels. So s you see it is not some. .thing to be taken lightly there is a lot to go wrong. One could write a whole chapters on the rights and wrongs and do's and dont 's on clock repairing.