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    • By east3rn
      I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
      I have put the watch on the timegrapher 
      The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
      Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
      Thank you!

    • By Padd
      Hello Everyone,
      Padd here from the UK.
      It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
      Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
      Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
      I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
      I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
      I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
      Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.

    • By PJA
      Just in case, I came across this "Watch-O-Scope" software. To those who have a need for it. Also here is an instructional video how to install. I hope it will help somebody here.
    • By maclerche
      I have gotten hold on a Elma Star vibrograf. Does anyone know if you can still buy paper and carbon for this machine?  

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    • Hi all,   I'm new to this fascinating discipline.   I'm a plumbing and heating contractor by trade.   Been in that industry for 35 plus years.   My other interests include gunsmithing.   I stumbled on to one of Marks YouTube videos and I was drawn right in.   I've always been interested in mechanical things.   Thanks for all of the information I've already received.    Hope to pursue this and gain skill and knowledge. 
    • Hi JDM, This is super consolidation work. Huge help. Thanks very much.
    • I had the same problem on a pocket watch. Turned out to be a loose impulse jewel. Re-shellaced it and all was good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    • Look at the spring position BETWEEN the regulator pins.  If its central to both pins, I vote to leave it alone.  The old guys (Fried and De Carle) often suggested using a slight bend in the hairspring  to centralize the spring position between regulator pins.  It does appear to be a little eccentric.   At any rate, I doubt your slight kink would be a reason for low amplitude.   Good luck, RMD
    • No aspersions need be cast, deep fried cockroaches are real. This from Wikipedia for example. "... The cockroaches are fried twice in a wok of hot oil, which makes them crispy with soft innards that are like cottage cheese.[92][93] Fried cockroaches are ground and sold as pills for stomach, heart and liver diseases.[94] A cockroach recipe from Formosa (Taiwan) specifies salting and frying cockroaches after removing the head and entrails.[95]In traditional and homeopathic medicine..." I'm pretty adventurous in terms of what I will eat, and in my travels,  have tried some strange stuff over the years, including seal meat, ostrich, crickets and kangaroo (not all at the same sitting of course). If offered deep fried cockroaches, based on that description, I might be tempted, though not as a solution to any internal medical issues. As to the cause of the demise of the key-less work of Russian watches, I suspect the lack of proper sealing of the stem is probably a major contributor. On those watches that I have seen this problem (not all Russian), there was evidence of corrosion or ingress of crud, both of which could lead to binding and stripping of teeth. Metallurgy may also be  a factor, particularly if the cause is a snapped spring but I suspect that poor case construction is a more common reason.  Lack of servicing is also likely to be a common cause, since grease tends to turn to tar if not regularly replaced, and once in this state, the wearer will tend to simply put more pressure on the winder in the hope of "freeing it up", which is obviously not a good idea.  
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