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    • By east3rn
      I am working on a vtg. Citizen cal.7520 automatic movement.
      I have put the watch on the timegrapher 
      The graph looks OK but the beat error shows 9.9ms. I presumed that beat error should be around 1.0~2.0 given the shape of the graph.
      Is the beat error actually bad or the timegrapher is wrong??
      Thank you!

    • By Padd
      Hello Everyone,
      Padd here from the UK.
      It all started with a desire to fix a Submariner replica I bought off a lucky lucky man in Pisa, Italy while on a European tour.
      Next thing I know I'm investigating Submariner replicas and building my own, signed by me, using a Seagull ST2130 movement, adventure watch.
      Now I'm hooked, I took inspiration from Marks videos, now I'm happily starting to work on parts of the movement, and have recovered one or two movements where the stem came out, but wouldn't stay back in. I have built a few watches for friends and relations, but now I need to be able to service them when they come back to me.
      I also have a couple of movements that run really badly, so I will be practising on those over the winter weekends. Full repair/servicing kit IS my Christmas present.
      I really want to get one of those ST2130's, serviced and tweaked by me, doing a -------------------------- on my timegrapher. not a -.'-.'''--,'.'.' (and worse) that they do at the moment.
      I wont start to list my watch collection, but it runs from a Casio digital to a Rolex pocket watch with Seikos, Citizens, Omegas and home builds in the mix.
      Must do Mark's course, but I'm afraid I may have already learned 60+% of it already.

    • By PJA
      Just in case, I came across this "Watch-O-Scope" software. To those who have a need for it. Also here is an instructional video how to install. I hope it will help somebody here.
    • By maclerche
      I have gotten hold on a Elma Star vibrograf. Does anyone know if you can still buy paper and carbon for this machine?  

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    • This is pretty much how every HMT I've purchased "fully serviced" from India arrives. Invariably they have low amplitude and appear to have been lubricated with lard. Some are filthy, and obviously have never been serviced, but others are relatively clean, but over oiled with some unidentified *stuff* of dubious origin.   The one I just looked at this evening, in the trace above, went from around 150 degrees to between 230 and 240 simply by cleaning and re-oiling it, and will probably improve further overnight, so to go the other way, try rodabod's suggestion. Before you fill it with tar though, I would remove the balance and give it a good close-up inspection. Particularly the hairspring, but also check the shock spring is correctly fitted. If you have access to another balance, try that.
    • Part #443 with screw #5 443.  Trying hard to set the screw when I have the setting lever positioned over the plate hole.Thank you in advance for any help you can provide AndyHull!
    • Can try a pen tube (like a bic pen) with the cartridge removed. See if you can find one with a small hole which is smaller than the hairspring collet. A mechanical pencil tube and cap could be more suited.  Or just get a staking set!
    • Looks like typical banking to me. Crude options for reducing amplitude are heavy oil (like D5) on the balance jewels. Or you could even oil the pallet pivots to make it sluggish.    Better option is a lighter spring. 
    • To the OP: what country are you based in? Do you have the hole-to-tip dimension?
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