Hmmm, kind of!
But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking.
After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle).
I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament.
Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first).
Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
Hi everyone! I bought an Aeromatic 1912 A1308 watch (have not received it yet) and I was wondering what caliber does it use. By chance I found the attached pictures, I believe it's the same caliber but I found no information on it, only that it may be a Seagull. Can somebody help?
Is it possible to purchase parts for a Citizen 8228A (Miyota) movement. I have a rather beat up old example, which is missing the tip of one of the winder gears.
I suspect the answer is going to be, no, you would need to find the parts from another damaged example.
I did look on Cousins, but the part I need is not listed.
Initially I suspected the only issue with it was the balance, and spent a little time tickling the hairspring back into shape, only to then figure out that while the winder made the right noises, it wasn't actually driving the mainspring, due to the missing pinion tip.
Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
The simplest option is placing a glass tumbler upside down on it.
Or a larger cover if it's a movement and spread out parts.
Anything that will cover and seal reasonably well to prevent dust selling on it.
Thanks, vinn3. Hmm...Unimat. I forgot about those. I actually do have an SL1000 that I won in a raffle a couple of years ago. I bought the 3-jaw chuck for it. I didn't think of it because I heard that it wasn't considered precise enough for most watch-work. Crystal work is probably not what they're referring to.
So if the 3-jaw on the SL1000 would work, I might be able to do something. Still, I'm not sure of how to order a crystal of sufficient size and thickness to be of use.
Oh, and the epoxy idea sounds like something I could work as well. That way I would just have to break those beads/bonds, remove the movement, and then soak the back to remove the epoxy.