It's been a while since I've worked on a movement as old as this. A friend asked me to look at whether I could get his great-grandmother's watch working again. When I first saw it, I thought it was an old 1920's ladies wristwatch, though thought it odd that the winding stem is at 12. However, on closer examination, it resembles more of an old pocket watch movement. Now amazingly, the watch is ticking when wound but I cannot pull the stem to set the hands. On removing the dial, I can see the yoke and yoke spring on the opposite side. But would I be right in thinking that it is missing the setting lever? There is a space that looks suspiciously like there could have been a setting lever there once but I could be wrong.
I'd also be interested to hear your opinions on the age of the movement. I'm thinking around 1900.
What's more surprising is that when the case is closed, you don't see the chipped porcelain around the edges, so thick is the bevel. It looks so nice and ornate and when the case is closed. Would love to be able repair but have my doubts.
Any ideas about the keyless works?
Thanks in advance.
I have been working on a lovely old 1924 Omega 23.7 S.T2 gents' wristwatch and have had some limited success in stripping down, servicing and reassembly in that the movement now works and keeps good time. However, on inspecting the parts as I went, I realised that the crown and stem weren't original, explaining why it kept falling out. So I ordered a replacement Omega stem for the exact calibre from Cousins, which arrived today. However, thinking this would be the issue resolved, I was disappointed to find after closer examination of the keyless works, that the pivot shaft end of the stem will not slide home through the pivot shaft hole. I have included photos the best I can to illustrate the problem with some additional photos of the watch for reference.
I have been watchmaking as a hobby for about 8 months and this looks like a pretty advanced problem to solve. If anyone has any ideas how I can get the stem engaged in the pivot hole or any other suggestions, and really appreciate hearing from you.
I broke the pivot of balance wheel on ETA 2804-2.
I bought a generic complete balance wheel with bridge for ETA 2824-2 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/262234041099?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and tried to install it without any difficulty. There is only a difference between the new and old one is the shock assemblies (Incabloc vs Novodiac). In the photo below, the new one is the yeallow on the right hand side.
My question are:
- Is the complete balance wheel and bridge replaceable between those movements?
- If Yes, after installed, the balance wheel has swung a little bit then stop. What is the reason? How to fix it?
First I would like to give my many thanks to Mark Lovick for sharing with us all the wonderful world of watch repairing. His talents at the bench are a great source of inspiration and motivation. I have learned great tips on technique. Books are good, but being at the bench with a professional such as Mark is a true joy. His care and dedication shows us all what can be accomplished through patience, determination, and the willingness to learn. Mark, your videos are unmatched anywhere, they are truly a gift. Thanks again.
And now on to my main topic. Whilst servicing an ETA 2824-2, I received the new mainspring. Upon examining the inner coil that has the slot for the hook on the arbor, it became obvious this last and important coil was incorrectly formed and way too large to fit the corresponding diameter of the mainspring arbor. The photos show it clearly. I have a question for Mark. Is it somewhat common? Is it just a matter of forming this coil to fit? I have not come across this before. I think that the mainspring should not have to be altered, as this may cause a stress point. I am tempted to return it for another. The mainspring is shown with the corresponding arbor to compare.
I'm going to reassemble and lubricate my first watch this weekend. I've seen a few people on the web mention using PML Stem Grease to lubricate the keyless works parts. Is anyone here using it for this purpose? It's supposed to make setting and winding smooth and silky.
I disassembled a Seiko 5139A today and discovered oil—and it is green. The entire movement down to the bare plate was covered in oil. No wonder the amplitude was almost nothing and the Balance was straining to move.
Hi on these plastic/welded movements I use Carburetter cleaner in a spray can and dry under a light bulb on tissue the carb cleaner dries with no residue ok,Then spin up on a line release unit to free up everything. it works on some others NBG so into the scrap box.