Jump to content

Wittnauer crystal wrench


UrgurTheGurgur

Recommended Posts

After repairing and servicing my father's great grandfather's Elgin pocket watch(picture heavy post coming of this). I returned it to him this past Sunday as an Easter gift. After dinner, he handed me his uncle's 60's Wittnauer Automatic which hasn't run in years and asked if I could take a look.

The caseback is stamped "Use All Proof 1200 Wrench" From what I gather, it is a tool which compresses the crystal so it can be lifted out. But try as I might, I cannot find an "All Proof 1200“ wrench. I did manage to find This tool on the Bay. Can anyone tell me whether it will work on this Wittnauer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have one of these little monkeys you could try it. This tool is a must for anyone repairing watches. There are many tools for removing glasses. Many years ago many makers would bring out there certain tool for opening their watches, I had many,  this universal tool was better then most.

159.102.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, clockboy said:

If purchasing one DON'T buy the cheap Chinese  version they don,t work. Purchase the Bergeon made one.

Thanks clockboy the cheap Chinese ones weren't about in my days. I see a lot of Chinese watch tools on ebay and they don't look very good.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

Thanks clockboy the cheap Chinese ones weren't about in my days. I see a lot of Chinese watch tools on ebay and they don't look very good.  

I did have a Bergeon lift tool but at the time was struggleing with low domb crystels so purchased the Chinese one to see if it would work better. However I just found the build was crap & just did not work yes I suppose I could file & dress the claws but what a per larva. As the saying goes you get what you pay for.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for a used Bergeron lift.

As to the one I linked in my post. I just thought the Longines one might work for the Wittnauer. Because I believe Longines owned Wittnauer at the time this watch was made. But there is probably only one way to tell. Right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And careful since a used -- or abused -- Bergeon could be worst than a new Chinese...they won't work, either one! And you will have to dress every claw risking to offset the "balance" of the tool. Still the construction may be better in the end with the used one...Always a gamble buying used, especially when they are not that cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
    • Why just the bottom mike ? Is it worth polishing the whole arm ?
    • The one thing I took time over was to round and polish the curves at the bottom of the jumper arm. The slightest mark (left over from cutting of filing) acts as a stress raiser, just where you don't need it. 
×
×
  • Create New...