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arkobugg

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Greetings everyone - just joined this fantastic forum...

I have never done working with watches before, so this is going to be exacting.

I have done lots of motorcycles, and old classic cars, and also some old speedometers for both motorcycles and cars. But never been inside a watch before...

It all started with that I bought my first diver back in 1977, that was a Antima Sport Professional with an ETA 2784 drive I think. This stopped for 2 years ago, after running good since then.

So then I decided, that I could try servicing this myself. And after looking into this forum, with so many cleaver people, and also Marks amazing videos. Im confident that Im going to pull this of.

But before I start with that, I have an Seiko diver 7002, (first generation)that is losing some time, and Im wounder how long should I controll it befor I try to adjust it?

Antima.jpg

Seiko 7002.jpg

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Welcome aboard Arkobugg, your interests are so very similar to my own so you should do just fine with watches.  Purchase a couple of old working wristwatch movements from eBay fir your first victims, and ask if you are not sure about anything and someone will help you.

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Hello Arkobug and Welcome.

Best tip I have got is to take photos before and after you remove any watch movement part.  Like Geo says get a couple of old movements to practise on and find out how they work - your mechanical capability will certainly give you an edge.

As regards your Seiko diver that is losing time, if it is not a tolerable amount then the adjustment for the timing or "regulation" is relatively easy and Mark has an excellent video on the subject for you to watch.  You will find it on u-tube under "How to regulate a mechanical watch - watch repair tutorial" but perhaps you should have a shot on an old watch first

It is a bit painstaking without a timegrapher but its certainly what we all did prior to getting fancy machines.  The other possibility is an app that Geo put me on to a while ago - "WatchTracker" certainly worth a try.

Happy tinkering,

Vic

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Welcome from me too Arkobug! Good advise given here and one more from me: Dress the tweezers you are using and keeping them in good working conditions all the time. For watches, those are your hands and fingers!

Also, a word for your Seiko: It is running. Most likely it needs service before you do any regulation to it. Before servicing, demagnetize. While servicing, you need to pay attention to the hairspring: it is easy to deform it and screw it up big time while manipulating both the hairspring and/or the movement with the hairspring on. In addition, inspect every part for wear and replace as needed (usually out of a donor movement if not available). Lube properly and let run for a couple of days...then, if not satisfied, regulate.

Before attempting the above procedures, buy an old movement (2 or 3 better, at least one working). Try the above with the "guinea pig" movements first and then move on to the real thing. This will give you, apart from the experience and knowledge of the movement you will be working on, a feel for the parts, the tweezers and a how to approach.

Visit our tutorial section too, research and enjoy!

Cheers,

Bob

PS. One more tip: Too much oil is worst than too little!

PS2. Same recommendation applies with the other watch...you only need some "spare" movements to practice first. The whole point is you don't want to "mess up" more what you already have...if you like to keep them. 

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Welcome to this forum, great place for open, honest, non judgmental advice. Even though cars are machines and technically watches are, neither could not be further from each other when it comes to service(ing). These are not "starter" watches as previously stated, in other words, don't try working on more complex watches to begin with or you risk having to send out to pro and it will cost you more. Regret is sure to follow. Remember the old adage from the mechanic: It will cost more if you tried to fix it yourself, i.e. If I have to fix what you tried to fix.....Confidence is only part of the equation, skill is paramount. Removing a balance assembly is a little more complex then wrenching off a rust bolt. And then there are the tools. By no means am I trying to discourage you from this endeavor, there is so much more to it than taking all the screws out and cleaning. If you have your heart set on getting into this, be prepared for the pitfalls. Sign me, one who knows.

p.s. very nice watches, worthy of servicing!

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