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Need Technical Manual For Swiss Chrono


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The counterweight winding mech has fallen out among other things. The guy who gave it to me is a vet chopper pilot and a good guy and really wants to see this thing run again. I a up to the challenge.

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The only other thing I can find is here. It shows pictures of how the isolating weights are fixed on their watches,if you click on cal families you will see what I mean.

http://www.watchalyzer.com/education/movements/iwc-movements-passion-for-innovation/

Looking on the net there's not much technical stuff about. You could try contacting them.

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That is an Asian copy of the ETA 7750 and very likely a replica IWC. You should still be able to follow the ETA 7750 guide to service it though.

You have just confirmed my thoughts on the matter. A giveaway, apart from the general finish or lack of, is the blued screws, properly blued screws would be blue in the slots, these are not. They have certainly not been heat blued!

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Purely for aesthetics. You will find this in most high end watches, also the bridges are nicely chamfered and finished. It's worth remembering that Omega and Rolex are not high end watches, I'm talking about the really expensive stuff.

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The blued screws are usually done for decorations purposes. I have blued screws myself over a flame where the slot has not changed. I think it is because the screw was coated in something not removed during the polishing process. I did not polish the screw slot. I think that these screws are possibly blues with a chemical process.

Also, the IWC 79350 is much more finely decorated and finished. It also has a triovis adjustment on the balance.

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Purely for aesthetics. You will find this in most high end watches, also the bridges are nicely chamfered and finished. It's worth remembering that Omega and Rolex are not high end watches, I'm talking about the really expensive stuff.

So Geo, you are pretty sure that this movement is an Asian Replica? If so, I need to tell this guy and slightly deflate his ballon. As well, I will be a bit more aggressive in the repair.

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    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
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