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Need Technical Manual For Swiss Chrono


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The counterweight winding mech has fallen out among other things. The guy who gave it to me is a vet chopper pilot and a good guy and really wants to see this thing run again. I a up to the challenge.

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The only other thing I can find is here. It shows pictures of how the isolating weights are fixed on their watches,if you click on cal families you will see what I mean.

http://www.watchalyzer.com/education/movements/iwc-movements-passion-for-innovation/

Looking on the net there's not much technical stuff about. You could try contacting them.

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That is an Asian copy of the ETA 7750 and very likely a replica IWC. You should still be able to follow the ETA 7750 guide to service it though.

You have just confirmed my thoughts on the matter. A giveaway, apart from the general finish or lack of, is the blued screws, properly blued screws would be blue in the slots, these are not. They have certainly not been heat blued!

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Purely for aesthetics. You will find this in most high end watches, also the bridges are nicely chamfered and finished. It's worth remembering that Omega and Rolex are not high end watches, I'm talking about the really expensive stuff.

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The blued screws are usually done for decorations purposes. I have blued screws myself over a flame where the slot has not changed. I think it is because the screw was coated in something not removed during the polishing process. I did not polish the screw slot. I think that these screws are possibly blues with a chemical process.

Also, the IWC 79350 is much more finely decorated and finished. It also has a triovis adjustment on the balance.

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Purely for aesthetics. You will find this in most high end watches, also the bridges are nicely chamfered and finished. It's worth remembering that Omega and Rolex are not high end watches, I'm talking about the really expensive stuff.

So Geo, you are pretty sure that this movement is an Asian Replica? If so, I need to tell this guy and slightly deflate his ballon. As well, I will be a bit more aggressive in the repair.

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    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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