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I've given up on the idea of a comprehensive, affordable set of mainspring winders. A new spring is cheap and goes in so easily! By no means am I  an expert with hairsprings, but repairing them i

You wouldn't. It's about barrel sizes. The ETA set is sized (and I'm sure labeled) according to common ETA movements. Generic sets are sized by unit measurements (mm). If you do a lot of ETA stuff, it

Just found in a chronograph barrel. Apparenly put in by hand, too ? Frank  

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Hi Seth

I can see that the hooks are worn. My advice is find a kind engineer to create a new hook on the winder stem using a gouging chisel. If you look carefully you can see that a chiseling tool was used to make the hook. You could try it yourself using an old masonry drill bit with the tip ground to a chisel shape to the width of the gouge in the stem. Trap the winder securely in a vice and if you put the masonry chisel in  the gouge at the right angle then tap the end with an hammer being very careful not to hit too hard you should be able to move the metal to form a new hook. I would practice on a scrap piece of steel such as a nail of the same diameter first.

Hope this helps.

Masonary bit convertion.png

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  • 1 month later...
On 8/7/2018 at 10:53 PM, matabog said:

I have been struggling with the matter of mainspring winders for a while and I want to share some of my experience with Bergeon mainspring

Thanks for your posts. Very enlightening! Mainspring winders are unfortunately a struggle indeed. May I ask where you got the arbor diameters? I’ve been searching Bergeon’s site but couldn’t find the information. I don’t doubt your numbers but I’d like to know the arbor diameters for their movement specific winders as well. Thanks!

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...I measured them :) after I received them. The dimensions are for the Nivaflex version, the ones in the post. The table is a print screen from an excel file I made :)

Edited by matabog
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42 minutes ago, matabog said:

...I measured them :) after I received them.

Thanks! That's what I thought! After all, why should Bergeon provide this information when it could led to reduced sales?! :huh:

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You need to find someone that has the ETA winders set to give you the dimmensions.

What I know from a friend that bought only the 2824 winder - the arbor is 2,5mm. So I suppose the newer winders have smaller-diameter arbors. Which, I suppose, is good for the current calibers, but won't work for the older calibers (it won't catch the maisnpring, and the bigger-arbor winder will have a barrel too big).

So you need to know what you're working on.

 

I am satisfied with my Nivaflex set, together with the improv's I made on it, because I can use them for both older and newer calibers.

 

About the left hand arbors... I  use two consecutive barrels, the larger being smaller then the watch barrel - and I right-hand wind it in the smaller barrel and then push it in the bigger barrel. Then, I will finally push it in the watch barrel (I am talking about seikos, citizen and Orients).

 

p.s. I also have #6 and #7 left hand winders, which are 3 and 3,5mm. But I don't have the 2,5mm arbor... so, depending on the watch arbor diameter, I use the left hand winders or the small barrel-big barrel improv.

Good luck!

image.png.af5f6e08cd6af86acfc0eb344e61d50a.png

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Hi, I'm going through the course and have disassembled a Seagull ST36 (6497), have cleaned the movement (except for the Going Mainspring/Barrel).

I need to get the correct mainspring winders for the following:

Seagul ST36 (6497 clone).

Seagull ST2100 (ETA 2836 clone).  

Seiko NH35A.

Are there acceptable budget options?

Thanks.

Bonus question: I'd like to use a dial without the extended seconds pinion on the seconds wheel. What is the best way to remove this?

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9 hours ago, caseten said:

Bonus question: I'd like to use a dial without the extended seconds pinion on the seconds wheel. What is the best way to remove this?

So you don't want to have any seconds hand? 
If not you have to grind of the extra part of the pinion sticking out from the jewel, be sure not to take away too much since you still need it to rest in the jewel.

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From what I have learned on this site There is always an answer,  Ali express (china)  apparently does some passable spring winders so that may be your first port of call, Cousins uk, Jules Borel, timesavers, esslinger in the USA are also material houses from where tools can be purchased.

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  • jdm changed the title to Mainspring Winders
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys 

Had a bit a luck on the horses so thought i would buy a mainspring winder. (thought i could buy one now and again when i had the pennies). Went to cousins and i am non the wiser what to get. I was going to by a number 7 as that seemed a good size to start with .But at the end it says replacement barrels. Am i right in thinking they want you to buy that and then buy a handle on top of that so you can use it?

So you pay £42. and then you pay £35 for a right turning handle and the same again for a left turning handle.

Please someone tell me i have that wrong. I can pay £42 and happily wind springs on it without having to then pay for a handle.

cheers

gary

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I purchased a watch mainspring winder .  The type of winder is called Vigor, mainspring winder,   you have 6 winders in the set........  MW 155, Swiss. Is anybody familiar with this brand and is is it worth the 95$ I paid for it? I am  new to replacing a  watch mainspring......my biggest concern is winding the mainspring and putting it in the wrong way.....how do you know if the mainspring should be  wind counter or clock wise? I  watched  several videos from you tube and i am still confused .... i do have several going barrels to practice on but if i can't identify the direction left or right then its futile .......I need HELP!  Does Mark have a video on this?  Can you use the same mainspring winder, for an automatic watch? Any and all suggestions wanted.

Thanks

 

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3 hours ago, honeybee50 said:

my biggest concern is winding the mainspring and putting it in the wrong way.....how do you know if the mainspring should be  wind counter or clock wise?

Look at the barrel arbor.
Identify the upper and lower pivots. so to place correctly into the barrel.
Check the hook at the center that has a flat protrusion, while the other side is tapered.
That flat must engage the flat cut that is toward the inner end of the mainspring.
Otherwise the mainspring cannot be wound.

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  watched  several videos from you tube and i am still confused ....

Videos are great but sometime you want the clear, plain language description from a good book and its illustrations. Recommend you get some beginner repairer ones.

Quote

Can you use the same mainspring winder, for an automatic watch?

Yes. On an automatic you will have to manually guide the bridle into the drum at end.

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1 hour ago, honeybee50 said:

I purchased a watch mainspring winder .  The type of winder is called Vigor, mainspring winder,   you have 6 winders in the set........  MW 155, Swiss. Is anybody familiar with this brand and is is it worth the 95$ I paid for it? I am  new to replacing a  watch mainspring......my biggest concern is winding the mainspring and putting it in the wrong way.....how do you know if the mainspring should be  wind counter or clock wise? I  watched  several videos from you tube and i am still confused .... i do have several going barrels to practice on but if i can't identify the direction left or right then its futile .......I need HELP!  Does Mark have a video on this?  Can you use the same mainspring winder, for an automatic watch? Any and all suggestions wanted.

Thanks

 

Well, if you paid $95 and someone else was bidding then - Yes, it's worth $95 :-).

This forum and other forums, and Google will provide tons of photos and videos. Just search and read or watch and look and the photos.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/15608-tight-fit-for-barrel-arbor-help/#comment-138927

 

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Most barrels have the cap at the bottom, facing the dial. In that case (with the exception of 8 day movements), the arbor will hook so that it winds anticlockwise. This means when you wind it into your winder, it is backwards so you want to wind clockwise.

 

A big problem with vintage winders is often the arbors are very large in diameter compared to modern watches. Sometimes you can use a smaller arbor in a larger winder barrel and it works ok, sometimes it's just a big pain. Even if you have a vintage full set of Bergeons and a modern set, you still run into situations where it's all a big compromise. Also, often the hook on old winder arbors is waaay too long; this can kink the spring in addition to making it really hard to seat and unseat the hook in the hole. I always check the hook on unknown older winders and redress the hook as needed.

 

With a perfect winder, for a non automatic watch, you have to be very careful when the spring is almost all the way in the winder. They want to slip in really fast those last few mm (it's like they know, like when you need a bathroom and you're finally near one) and you can snap the tongue off.

 

It's a never ending strife, I watched a Finnish watchmaker lose about a year of his life from stress mucking around with a problem spring and he's an amazing watchmaker. In the end I wound it in by hand for him, mostly out of fear that he would start destroying the workshop (yes you can wind them in by hand without damage but it takes practice).

Edited by nickelsilver
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