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Mainspring winders


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Hey

I like to check the mainspring on all the watches i look at which means i have to rewind them by hand and alas time has caught up with me and i find its a struggle. So i need to buy mainspring winders.

I cannot afford a set all in one go but hope to buy a couple now and again as  i go along.

The question is what size do i buy first in other words which size will i use more than any other. Then i can by that first and so on.

cheers

gary

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Hi Gary The only winders I have seen singly are bergeon ones approx £.60 each,you could almost get one with all the bits from ALI Express (china) for that price. I have attached a pic of one on Ebay at the moment about £27          They are not Idiot proof and a bad operator could kink a spring, depends how careful you are.        Cheers

MSWinders.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hello,

I am looking to buy a mainspring winder, since I would like to clean and put the mainsprings (worth putting back) into the barrels. This is something that I found but I am not sure if this is what I need. Mainly looking for a winder which could wind man's wristwatch mainsprings (for example, Seiko 5 or standard ETA movements).

Also, I am not sure if I am able to wind mainspring for automatic watch with this tool.

Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by bojan1990
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These old mainspring winders aren't necessarily bad, but they almost without fail have arbors that are just far too big to work with modern springs. You can sometimes get by fitting a smaller arbor to the bigger barrel,  but it's usually a pain and requires almost more skill than hand winding the spring in.

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Hello People,

I hope this finds you all well and staying safe in these weird times, quick question, I am about to start lessons course three, and whilst I have amassed a decent tool collection on line, one thing I haven't yet acquired are mainspring winders, I do have one vintage one but looks to be for clocks and or larger pocket watches, I have looked on line and there are a fair few sets available and while not cheap, clearly will be needed if i am to carry on, however I am a little blown away and bemused by the various sets and the different numbers of movements they are for, is there a generic list of basic and more common movements that are ideal for the newbie in this respect? i have looked at so many with all the differing four numbered movements I fear have con-fuddled myself? help! 

Alan

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15 minutes ago, AlanRH said:

Hello People,

I hope this finds you all well and staying safe in these weird times, quick question, I am about to start lessons course three, and whilst I have amassed a decent tool collection on line, one thing I haven't yet acquired are mainspring winders, I do have one vintage one but looks to be for clocks and or larger pocket watches, I have looked on line and there are a fair few sets available and while not cheap, clearly will be needed if i am to carry on, however I am a little blown away and bemused by the various sets and the different numbers of movements they are for, is there a generic list of basic and more common movements that are ideal for the newbie in this respect? i have looked at so many with all the differing four numbered movements I fear have con-fuddled myself? help! 

Alan

I put mainsprings in by hand.... i use to do it with a variety of winders when I was a newbie but now find it a lot easier and more accurate to do this by hand.  I have made video on how to do this.

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LOL...makes me chuckle.  Why.  Well, my dad had four different types of winders in the stuff I inherited.  I really fell in love with the K&D set, but it was incomplete--missing the smallest arbor (which I will likely never use).

The other day, I saw the complete K&D set plus another set on Ebay and, I dunno, maybe after a couple shots of Jameson, I was determined to win that auction.  I did and it cost me $$$.  Now I have winders out the wazzoo.  I will probably put some of these back on Ebay, because I can only wind one mainspring at a time!

So, I recommend the K&D

2021-02-23 13_14_42-Vintage Set of Mainspring Winders, 10 Winders, Great Condition,No Reserve, K & D.png

Edited by LittleWatchShop
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Hi Allan

I too am short of main sporing winders. I bought a really ceap set from ALIExpress but these are poor quality and I do not expect to get much winding out of them. The arbor pawls are brass instead of stianless and Mark Lovich points this out in his appraisal of this set. I went on Cousins UK web site and noticed you can purchase all the individual items for a full set of Bergeon set of 17. I contacted Cousins to ask if they did just the box that would hold the 17 and I could buy they winders as I need them to eventually make up a full set. Sam Cousins wrote back and said that the box only will be available July. I will definitely be ordering one.  I have already started the collection and have the left end right hand holders. This is a good way to spread the cost and get a quality product. 

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16 hours ago, bojan1990 said:

This is another one I found, looks like Bergeon thing, but again I am not sure if it is suitable for wristwatches:

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

I own these (but in blue) and they work well for me. They are definitely suitable for wristwatch mainsprings. The handle and the drums are made from aluminium I think, the arbor for attaching the mainspring is made from steel

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In my experience (some seven years now, and a few professional level courses at AWCI in Ohio) there is no simple solution to the mainspring winder problem.  I've owned and used the K&D 128.  Not very friendly, but useable for most American PW sizes.  Wouldn't count it for wristwatches -- barrel sizes generally too large.  Also used K&D WW size winders (set of three with variable "barrel" sizes).  These are easier to use and quite useful for older WW calibers, particularly American.  What many folks starting out won't understand is that the winder has to fit a number of different dimensions:  Winder barrel must be just smaller in diameter than spring barrel.  Winder core must be just larger in diameter than spring eye (to assure secure grip without permanently distorting eye.)  Height of winder barrel wall must be close to width (height) of mainspring -- if too high, spring will uncoil inside the winder barrel creating unholy mess and destroying mainspring (ask how I know!) 

Understand that modern automatic mainsprings are completely different animal than old PW or vintage WW springs.  They are much longer (meaning larger diameter when fully wound), much narrower, and generally have much smaller eyes.  Old American winders cannot be used on these without extensive modifications.

Which brings me to solutions.  Currently I'm using a set of generic Swiss winders sourced on E-bay for about $350.  These are identical to current Bergeon set of 17 right-hand winders selling around $900.  Also still using the K&D adjustable set of three.  Finally, using new set of Chinese winders (similar to Swiss pattern, quality not bad) designated for various ETA calibers (also fits some Rolex).  Even with all these options,  creative modifications are called for -- reducing height of winder barrel wall by inserting small washer to take up space, turning tiny ferrule on lathe to allow use of ETA caliber winder in generic winder barrel, etc.

Sorry to advise there is no simple solution. You will likely need several different winders before you're fully equipped.  Best advice is to practice repeatedly with old mainsprings, preferably identical to the one you're replacing.  Make modifications as required, and proceed with that expensive new mainspring only once you're fully confident you have the bugs worked out.  Oh, and don't believe people who say you can do it all by hand . . . best of luck installing 60-hour power-reserve automatic spring by hand without destroying it.  Simply won't happen . . . !

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello

After trying to find a decent and reasonably priced mainspring winding set (and failing to do so, since the arbors of the set I have are basically too thick) I guess I will have to go for Bergeon. Since I am on budget, I was thinking buying only I need for now.

If I understand correctly, Seiko 5 has several movements (6 series, 7 series, 7s26 etc.) and they wind in both right and left direction (clockwise and counterclockwise).

So, my idea is to buy the following:

Right Hand Mainspring Winder Handle - https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bergeon-handles-for-winders

Right Hand, Ø10.80mm (No.7) Winder - https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bergeon-winders-by-size

Left Hand, Ø10.80mm (No.7) Arbor - https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/watch-bergeon-arbors-for-winders

This way I hope I will be able to wind both 6 and 7 series of mainsprings of Seiko 5. Is this going to work?

Since I am in Germany, I guess the best way would be to buy from Cousins. Anybody has an idea where to buy this here in Germany?

Thanks.

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If you are on a tight budget you could just purchase a new spring which many horologists do as part of the service charge anyway. If I have a criticism of the new Bergeon wonders the shafts are a bit fat. 
Cousins offer the complete barrel and spring for approx £13.00. If you want just to change the mainspring you need
GR 2378-X Cousins approx. £10.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/seiko-movement-parts

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Thanks but I would like to try to service them anyways and and start building set.

The main question is if I buy left hand arbor and put it in right hand winder and into right hand handle, would I be able to wound left direction mainsprings (for example, series 6 Seiko). 

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33 minutes ago, bojan1990 said:

Thanks but I would like to try to service them anyways and and start building set.

Your are not the first one to ask here about taking apart and replacing mainsprings on Seiko watches having a "sealed" barrel, lubricated for life, and sold as a complete unit only. 

If you read the various topics about that you will find how the outcome may not be the desired one, as in experiencing performance degradation in amplitude and/or power reserve, even when fitting a new mainspring which is close but not exactly matching the original. Issues that then no expensive, specialized lubricant can fix. 

Of course I know well that for one side anyone can do as he pleases with his time and money, and for the other it happens often that beginner have pretty well formed opinions even when contrary to common advice. 

So if you're OK with spending more in tools (which have no other use but for some Seiko's) costing more than a brand new Seiko mov.t, welcome to go ahead and please post on how it goes. 

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