Jump to content

Recommended Posts

From time to time, I'm unhappy with the watch luminous on a watch I've bought.

 

I normally like to keep things as original as possible and just leave them alone, but sometimes it doesn't do it the watch any favours.

 

Sometimes the hands have been redone in bright green, maybe the hand luminous is falling off due to careless watch repairer, or perhaps the hands have over aged and become black and too dirty to read.

 

So that's where I step in and do my best to getting it looking proper.

 

 

 

First of all, this isn't a tutorial, do this at home at your own risk!

 

I just thought it might be interesting to you guys to see some of my results.

 

I shall post some small tips below though:-

 

1. Mixture is key, too much thinner makes the paint runny, and it won't go where you want it too, too much binder will make it shiny and unnatural looking. (unless it's a modern watch), this is probably the hardest part to get right.

 

2. Leave hands to dry over 24 hours. While it's tempting to put on an hour after, the chemicals will damage certain dials, just from the vapor. 

 

3. Too much luminous paint can make hands curl when they dry, if hands are very thin.

 

4. When putting hands back on, I prefer to set minute and hour hand.

 

5. Sometimes just accept you can't get it perfect. Even original hands sometimes age slightly differently from the dial, perhaps depending on it's thickness or environmental factors.

 

Can't help with pigment advice, I bought a vintage source of waterproof pigments, that were designed to be mixed with eggwhite from an independent person, and it's no longer stocked. All pigments are mixed manually.

 

Tools:

 

1. Hand removers, I mainly use levers, sometimes very rarely I will use the spring type hand remover though.

 

2. Dial guard, used with hand remover (I just made a homemade one).

 

3. Plastic tweezers. hands are very delicate and thinly plated.

 

4. Hand press

 

5. Oiler stick for applying paint. (Have tried a thin brush before like they originally did in the old days, but did not get the results I wanted.) 

 

 

Now that's all said, I have to say my jobs are hit and miss, sometimes I'm quite happy, sometimes I think I should of done better, but it's just how it goes. Feel free to comment on what you think is bad and what you think is good. Also I've only recently decided to share my work, so my best jobs are long gone and never photographed, but I shall try and keep this going as it's something I often do myself when trying to get a watch to be more sellable.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a Buren military watch from the 1940's, someone before me painted the hands bright green and the original luminous turned black and was missing in places. 

 

I decided to redo the hands and dial luminous. (white spots on second picture are from lint which my iphone camera picks up from the strong light source)

post-1618-0-51687100-1457451130_thumb.pn

post-1618-0-83801800-1457451145_thumb.jp

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a Jaeger lecoultre military watch, I probably consider this job a miss. 

 

Original hands were a grimmy mold looking green and I believe someone relumed the dial before hand, a very orangely looking colour. I probably should of relumed the whole dial, but decided just to match the colour they had used. Never the less it sold anyway.

post-1618-0-44491900-1457451328_thumb.jp

post-1618-0-11199600-1457451333_thumb.jp

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This one is another JLC military.

 

Hand luminous was completely missing, however original dial luminous was intact.

 

I decided to add a bit of patina and age to the hands to get this to match the original luminous.

post-1618-0-86933800-1457451573_thumb.jp

post-1618-0-12443700-1457451581_thumb.jp

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What would you use for a job on a Seiko that is snow white in aspect and is supposed to glow as below ?

 

24188882743_b76208def5.jpg

I only do vintage watches, so I only have experience with making lume look old. So the luminous glow is slightly dull after pigment is mixed. And this matches the old luminous on watches because the glow strength has weakened as time passes.

 

However from speaking to dial restorers that I know, for glow strength it depends on the quality of the luminous. He told me there are different grades of luminous, and the stuff you and I can buy is pretty much junk. The real stuff comes from Switzerland and can only be ordered industrially.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

However from speaking to dial restorers that I know, for glow strength it depends on the quality of the luminous. He told me there are different grades of luminous, and the stuff you and I can buy is pretty much junk. The real stuff comes from Switzerland and can only be ordered industrially.

 

Or from Japan (lumibrite). The Swiss one should be  this http://www.rctritec.com/?id=13 

Some seller sat they have the real deal, but I've never tried.

 

BTW your relumes look very fine and coherent.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a curiosity question BW, what sort of magnification do you use to achieve these results. I have done a little re luming but never attempted numbers etc. only hands. I am now tempted to dig out an old scrapper and have a go. I would probably have to use my scope as my near sight is on the wane.

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i ordered lume from a seller on the SCWF. he said it was from nemoto, if i remember correctly. i think it was lumibrite.

i got blue and green. haven't used it yet. but i can tell you, the little plastic packets glow like crazy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a curiosity question BW, what sort of magnification do you use to achieve these results. I have done a little re luming but never attempted numbers etc. only hands. I am now tempted to dig out an old scrapper and have a go. I would probably have to use my scope as my near sight is on the wane.

Cheers,

Vic

I don't use any magnification. I always find using a strong light source much much better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice BW. I don't think I could manage even with my reading glasses but I will still have a go using the scope. Do use any particular method to remove old lume from the numbers prior to putting on the new lume.

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice BW. I don't think I could manage even with my reading glasses but I will still have a go using the scope. Do use any particular method to remove old lume from the numbers prior to putting on the new lume.

Cheers,

Vic

 

Yeah, use pegwood, anything harsher will scratch the dial.

 

Use a brush to remove the dust or sometimes rodico if dust is stuck to dial, do not use a air puffer, and put remainder dust on a white of paper, fold and throw out when done. 

 

Why I say do not use an air puffer is because watches under the age of 1950's all use radium.

 

While it's a safer than people make it out to be, you do not want to be breathing it in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • You'll need to buy another watchmaker's bench for them. 🤣
    • Search this forum for "expiration" and you will get some opinions. According to @nickelsilver (whom I trust), they do not matter at all. Makes sense for synthetic oils.
    • I would never criticize anyone for working within his or her means.  If you are getting any results or encouragement using what you have or can afford at this time, more power to you. From each according to his ability, to each according to his needs.  Karl Marx I do hope Santa comes through for you. Good luck and keep plugging away. PS: that's a handsome looking watch. Shane 
    • Hello I don't have any experience with the expiration dates on oils. My question is how long after the expiration date is the lubricant still effective or do I need to rush out and replace it right away? I have three oils that have expiration dates of: D - 5 = 10 / 2022, 941 & 9010 = 11 / 2022.  From the Mobius web site I see that: D - 5 is a "mixture of mineral and refined vegetable oils" 941 & 9010 are synthetic.   Thanks in advance for any help that can be given.   
    • yes I agree this is not a long term solution and I have written a letter to santa telling him to bring me expensive greases and oils for christmas...(my how ones desires change with age) and this was more of an exercise in getting an old cheapo banger stripping it, and putting it back together using my 150 euro microscope...(yes I am investing in tools for this) which has been a great help to my eyesight as squinting down a loupe is just not for me.  I would rather got the THX 1138 route and remotely manipulate things whilst looking into its rather largeish screen. Rather than looking directly at them via a loup, it works for me, as I have high visual and spatial awareness so grabbing things with tweezers sight unseen but on screen has been pretty easy for me. But it's crap for filming as the microscope is so low you can't get your hand in under it with a screwy so your having to drag it out of vision all the time to nail somehting down. but I do not intend to start youtubing either on my van fixes or my watch repair as no one wants to hear a Yorkshireman chuntering throwing tools about and swearing all the time about stuff... But It would probably go viral as the kids would have field day mashing it up probably. but I do not want to be a tv star, I leave that to those good at that... But I see you have been following and replying to my posts and I thank you for your interest...But of course i am going to buy the oils mark recommended as if you want to seriously service a watch you need both them and an ultrasonic cleaning machine... But as it stands I have spent more on tools and equipment than on watches...but I will be ready for the gem of a seamaster or rolex when i find it in a thrift store... But my scores so far are 7009A achieved, although the intermediate date wheel was totally banjaxxed in both the movement I bought and the donor movement (i am now the man to see for 7009a parts) and i am begging anyone and everyone for their contribution of one of those. Although I have to tell the truth and I did destroy the first original balance in the 7009A with my hamfistedness but all in the learning curve. but the problem there is that the hour wheel spins loose probably because the intermediate date wheel is not there to hold it...but the second hand ticks along like a champion and the magic lever is working as it should so when I get the wheel it should be wearable... and The Unitas 176 Achieved in the Cauny 17 rubis Antimagnetic which now works and keeps pretty good time with just 3 in 1 and car grease, but like you so rightly said probably not for very long... But I worked it out that if I greased the CV joints with braking grease and the rest of the grease points on my Renault master van, then the whole vehicle would be worth more than a Ferrarri...
×
×
  • Create New...