Jump to content

Seiko Sportsmatic 7625-8293


Recommended Posts

Picked this up recently for a snip from an excellent fleabayer in Japan:

 

post-80-0-31658500-1457205574_thumb.jpg

 

A fairly clean item from August 1968 with a good dial. Being a bit of a fan of Sportsmatics, I haven't come across this particular model before & wrongly thought at first that it had a cyclops crystal retro fitted. Further research showed this to be the original configuration, however the crystal was in fairly poor nick & appeared to have been polished a few times in the past. After some more detective work the part number was obtained & amazingly Cousins had one in stock:

 

post-80-0-18273600-1457206608_thumb.jpg

 

So far so good, although the rotor sounds a little rough (not uncommon on these). Lets see whats inside:

 

post-80-0-43477900-1457205578_thumb.jpg

 

Bit grubby with a scraping rotor, but the bearings seem OK, so the rotor gets bent upwards slightly - don't frown, it's what Seiko recommends!

 

Out of the case, dial & hands off, strip down the dial side. Note the broken setting lever spring, I have a donor movement from a previous project and will replace this:

 

post-80-0-88468600-1457205582_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-61565600-1457205587_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-06895900-1457205592_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-45987400-1457205596_thumb.jpg

 

Turn over & rotor off:

 

post-80-0-13575400-1457205601_thumb.jpg

 

Remove the winding gear:

 

post-80-0-62293800-1457205605_thumb.jpg

 

Strip down the above, a bit of wear on the magic lever but appears to work fine, clean lube & reassemble:

 

post-80-0-91219300-1457205612_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-61585400-1457206062_thumb.jpg

 

Onto the main stripdown:

 

post-80-0-85418800-1457206066_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-20739100-1457206071_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-53386600-1457206075_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-93160000-1457206079_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-37013400-1457206084_thumb.jpg

 

All in bits & cleaned:

 

post-80-0-12628800-1457206087.jpg

 

Lower Diashock dismantled, cleaned then reassembled:

 

post-80-0-83468700-1457206089.jpgpost-80-0-65186600-1457206092.jpg

 

Then it all goes back together:

 

post-80-0-65098900-1457206113_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-17995900-1457206118_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-05419300-1457206122_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-63800500-1457206129_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-56959400-1457206133_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-99103100-1457206175_thumb.jpg

 

On to the dial side, setting lever spring replaced:

 

post-80-0-17426700-1457206229_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-58108000-1457206234_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-22170400-1457206240_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-15017400-1457210051_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-18601500-1457206583_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-08179900-1457206587_thumb.jpg

 

Into the case, reattach winding gear, rotor  & caseback on:

 

post-80-0-32648300-1457206591_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-09512300-1457206596_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-19572200-1457206600_thumb.jpgpost-80-0-03835900-1457206604_thumb.jpg

 

The original crystal was used before the previous step to protect the hands, this is now removed the dial is given a final clean before putting the new crystal in place, which pushes on under finger pressure. The crystal is held firm by the bezel, which is a problem to fit as all of my dies are shallow & bevelled, unable to push the bezel down, so 2 pieces of 40mm waste water pipe are cut to suitable length, one piece is then fitted onto a stepped flat die, the other has a section removed and placed inside the first:

 

post-80-0-50002100-1457206611_thumb.jpg

 

Works a treat. Finally, with a new tan alligator strap fitted:

 

post-80-0-94329100-1457206614_thumb.jpg

 

It looks like the crown has been replaced with the wrong one in the dim & distant. Hopefully this will be rectified in due course.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind comments all.

 

Jdm - timegrapher reading as requested:

 

post-80-0-62014100-1457261593.jpg

 

Taken dial down, there is a little variance on other positions & I will give it another look in a week or so once its bedded in. The original readings before service were: Rate +/-13 seconds, Amp 194, BE 1.2

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant!  And so nicely photographed as well.  Oh how I wish my hands weren't so shaky as well as my confidence.  Looking at the pile of parts I would have no idea of the reassembly order.  This is where your craft and intelligence comes into play.  Bravo!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

excellent tutorial! well done and easy to follow. that sportsmatic is a beauty. that is a great classic look with those beautiful dauphine hands. and these sportsmatics seem to have much larger indices than other seikos. maybe i'm imagining that  - but it seems so.

i've got three of them - and i think one more around here somewhere. mine are 6619's from 1964, 1967 and one i can't date. they're a nice dress watch and just the right size.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked this up recently for a snip from an excellent fleabayer in Japan:

attachicon.gif01.jpg

A fairly clean item from August 1968 with a good dial. Being a bit of a fan of Sportsmatics, I haven't come across this particular model before & wrongly thought at first that it had a cyclops crystal retro fitted. Further research showed this to be the original configuration, however the crystal was in fairly poor nick & appeared to have been polished a few times in the past. After some more detective work the part number was obtained & amazingly Cousins had one in stock:

attachicon.gif37.jpg

So far so good, although the rotor sounds a little rough (not uncommon on these). Lets see whats inside:

attachicon.gif02.jpg

Bit grubby with a scraping rotor, but the bearings seem OK, so the rotor gets bent upwards slightly - don't frown, it's what Seiko recommends!

Out of the case, dial & hands off, strip down the dial side. Note the broken setting lever spring, I have a donor movement from a previous project and will replace this:

attachicon.gif03.jpgattachicon.gif04.jpgattachicon.gif05.jpgattachicon.gif06.jpg

Turn over & rotor off:

attachicon.gif07.jpg

Remove the winding gear:

attachicon.gif08.jpg

Strip down the above, a bit of wear on the magic lever but appears to work fine, clean lube & reassemble:

attachicon.gif10.jpgattachicon.gif11.jpg

Onto the main stripdown:

attachicon.gif13.jpgattachicon.gif14.jpgattachicon.gif15.jpgattachicon.gif16.jpgattachicon.gif17.jpg

All in bits & cleaned:

attachicon.gif18.jpg

Lower Diashock dismantled, cleaned then reassembled:

attachicon.gif19.jpgattachicon.gif20.jpg

Then it all goes back together:

attachicon.gif21.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif22.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif23.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif24.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif25.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif26.jpg

On to the dial side, setting lever spring replaced:

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif 27.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif28.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif29.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif30.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif31.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif32.jpg

Into the case, reattach winding gear, rotor & caseback on:

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif 33.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif34.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif35.jpghttp://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif36.jpg

The original crystal was used before the previous step to protect the hands, this is now removed the dial is given a final clean before putting the new crystal in place, which pushes on under finger pressure. The crystal is held firm by the bezel, which is a problem to fit as all of my dies are shallow & bevelled, unable to push the bezel down, so 2 pieces of 40mm waste water pipe are cut to suitable length, one piece is then fitted onto a stepped flat die, the other has a section removed and placed inside the first:

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif 38.jpg

Works a treat. Finally, with a new tan alligator strap fitted:

http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/public/style_images/master/attachicon.gif 39.jpg

It looks like the crown has been replaced with the wrong one in the dim & distant. Hopefully this will be rectified in due course.

What a great job

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
×
×
  • Create New...