Hi everyone, was super delighted to see how responsive this community is... I am resolving the 1st issue with my Slava watch and now I am confident I can get some help with my Molnya 3602
-I took it apart and noticed the balance spring is a little uneven and does not go back and forth... I took the bridge off (one screw) took out the balance wheel and spring attached but did not see anything wrong, out it back and the same issue pessimists.
I need help understanding if the balance wheel is properly installed and / or needs replacement to get the mechanism to function.
checked all other parts and main spring is good. Would help if I can also find the front crystal/glass and an authentic face.
UG Tri-Compax Chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops tickingBy IOB
I have a UG Tri-Compax from the 1950s or 60s (Calibre 281): The chronograph (centre) seconds hand can’t turn past 58.5 seconds and the whole watch stops ticking/working (nothing moving/turning in the movement). However, when the reset pusher (4 o’clock) is kept pressed, it enables the seconds hand and watch to move/tick again. The reset pusher is released when the chrono seconds hand reaches 60: the watch resumes ticking and the hands move until the chrono seconds hand reaches 58.5s again. The process is repeated.
It has been noticed that if the watch is held face down then the reset pusher “procedure” doesn’t always work (i.e. the watch does not resume ticking/moving). It’s usually necessary to turn the watch over and try to press the pusher a few times in order to make the seconds hands move again.
The 30-minute sub-dial at 3 o’clock has stopped working, too.
If the chrono is not activated, then the watch seems to run properly.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks for your insight!
I wanted to share my restoration stories that I have done for a long time and thrown into my archive. First I discussed the Atomic Mars 71 Brand using Valjoux 7734.
As it was seen, scratch and dial is broken. To begin with, I tried to brush the Case as Brushed and make it the first day. If it is decorated, I polished and re-painted the indexes (with acrylic paint). I usually do this in three layers so that the paint is not deleted in a short time.
I replaced the case buttons and tubes with aftermarket buttons.
Since the condition of the dial was in very poor condition, I had it re-painted. The quality is not so good. In Turkey, unfortunately, not doing the job well.
Caliber 7734 (Valjoux) is a special and robust mechanism for me. With good maintenance and lubrication, you can reduce deflection values up to 3-4 seconds per day. I added a short timelapse video about it :)
As a result, such a result came before us.
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
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Most of the cylinder watches are not worth a lot.. to be fair, some are quite nice but many are not, and as said, most repairers don't repair them. Over in the UK it's not so easy to sell a cylinder pocket watch to a dealer - working or not.. it seems people just don't want them for the most part. A gold example is nicer but still not highly prized unless particularly rare or special. Rare would be something early/ fitted with a ruby cylinder / a watch with a complication. I've got a load of cylinder watches but most don't work and aren't worth repairing (the working ones are often terrible timekeepers by modern standards - maybe 10 minutes a day) - one or two would be pretty enough to make a nice gift for someone who's just into that sort of thing.
Sorry for not answering before. A generous, incredibly experienced Master clock and watchmaker is occasionally teaching me and few others. I need to drive 3.:30 hrs to get to there, so is unfortunately is not happening all the time. I know he has no problem having his name published but I will refrain from doing that until I can put together a good posting with pictures and more details.