Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
First part of the disassembly, fixing and reassembly of my new Seiko 7T32-7C20 Flightmaster Chronograph that recently bought as defect.
The damage was caused by trying to manually setting the date at around 11:30PM, when the watch usually starts to change the date automatically.
Enjoy the first part of the video.
Good day, guys! This is my little way of giving back to this wonderful community.
We usually receive for repair a watch handed down by a father to his son. In this case, its a watch given by the son to his father - a Seiko 5 from the early 1990s.
The watch has seen better days, with its hardilex crystal beaten and the watch not moving at all regardless of the amount of shaking you give it.
The hands are corroded and the dial mounted on the movement using contact cement.
I'll skip the disassembly and show you how the Seiko 7009 movement works. The Seiko 7009 technical guide is easy to find on the net though.
First to be mounted is the center wheel that drives the cannon pinion. After which I install the escape wheel and the center wheel bridge.
The third wheel and fourth wheel is installed next. Note that the fourth wheel drives the second hand directly. Then the click comes next.
Prior to installing the unified barrel and train-wheel bridge, you have to install the pawl lever and first reduction wheel assembly. The assembly is held in place by the first reduction wheel holder. Take note of the orientation of the pawl lever.
I find it difficult to install the barrel and train wheel bridge while ensuring that the click spring doesn't get in the way.
<end of part 1>
Ronda 715 Service Walkthrough
I thought I'd post a walkthrough on a simple quartz movement for people who are just starting out in watch repairing.
The Ronda 715 is an excellent movement to begin with, as it's simple in design; but has all the components needed to practice your skills on.
Even better is that it only cost around $10 to buy this movement brand new online. So if you break it or loose a part, you learn from the experience, and just buy another one :) Perfect!!
The Ronda 715 is found in many of the "Fashion" brand watches, like Guess, JAG, Loyal, etc...
As this is a walkthrough for novices there will be arrows to every part as we disassemble this movement.
I also recommend you download the Tech Spec PDF and get familiar with how to read them.
Here's the link to down the PDF
Remember to have fun!! :lol: If you start to get frustrated, just have a break and come back to it later.
Patience and perseverance will get you there, and once the skills are mastered it's very rewarding.
Ok, lets begin
Firstly, you identify this particular caliber of movement by the number stamped into the plastic surround.
As you can see this one is stamped "715"
The tools you will need for this service are as follows:
Bergeon 4040 Movement Holder An Eye Loupe, or some type of optics 3x or better Pegwood 0.8mm Screwdriver 1.2mm Screwdriver Tweezers Hand Lifters A Hand Setting Tool A Parts Tray with cover And a piece of Rodico
Since I am using a movement purchased from CusionsUK, I unfortunately don't have Hands or a Dial to remove.
If you are servicing a movement presently in a watch, I suggest you watch one of Mark's video's to see how you remove Hands and the Dial.
Mark's Videos are a fantastic resource to show you proper technics, and I highly recommend viewing them.
They can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/user/jewldood/videos
Once the Hands and Dial are removed, we then need to remove the battery, if one is installed, before we begin disassembly.
On this movement it is done by gently pulling the Keeper Arm back away from the battery.
Be careful when doing this so that you don't slip and damage the Coil.
Then turn the movement over and remove the 4 screws, using a 0.8mm Screwdriver, that hold down the Date Indicator Guard, and remove it.
Here is a reference photo of the Date Indicator Guard and screws.
Next, hold down the Jumper Spring with Pegwood to stop it pinging away, and remove it with your tweezers.
Then remove the Date Jumper and Date Indictor Ring.
Next remove the Indictor Driving Wheel
Then the Date Indicator Plate
Followed by the Hour Wheel.
Next remove the Setting Wheel
Remove the Minute Wheel
Remove the Secondary Yoke
This completes all the components on the dial side of this movement.
Turn the movement over in the holder.
Unscrew the 3 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Module Cover Plate, and remove it.
NOTE: One of the screw is unique and larger than the others, remember it's location.
Here is a reference photo of the Module Cover Plate and the 3 screws.
Next remove the single screw that holds the Circuit and the Coil.
Then remove the Circuit VERY carefully and store it somewhere very safe.
Here is a reference photo of the Circuit and screw.
Next remove the Coil by lifting it with the end with no circuit tracks on it, as shown below.
Now unscrew the 2 screws, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Train Bridge and lift it off gently.
Here is a reference photo of the Train Bridge and screws.
Next remove the wheels of the train carefully, then the Rotor and Stator.
From left to right there names are: Third Wheel, Second Wheel, and Intermediate Wheel.
And here are the Rotor and Stator.
Unscrew the single screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Centre Bridge and remove it.
The Cannon Pinion should be on the centre post of the bridge and come away with it.
NOTE: This screw is also unique with a thicker head, remember it's location.
Here is a reference photo of the Centre Bridge, Cannon Pinion and screw.
Next remove the screw, using a 1.2mm Screwdriver, that holds the Plastic Setting Lever Cover, and remove it.
Here is a reference photo of the Setting Lever Cover and screw.
Then lift out the Setting Lever and Primary Yoke.
Lastly, pull out the Stem and the Sliding Pinion should fall to your work mat.
You have now completely disassembled the movement ... WELL DONE!! :)
The black plastic outer ring can not be removed, it is riveted to the Main Plate
All the parts can be put in the cleaning machine or Ultrasonic ... EXPECT THE FOLLOWING PARTS!
Battery Circuit Coil Rotor
I hope this was a fun movement to begin your journey into watch repairing, and that it builds your confidence to advance further.
Assembly will be posted soon...stay tuned!
ETA 251.626 Service Walkthrough
The 251.626 is often found in mid to high-end quartz chronographs on the market today.
It is a fairly complex quartz movement that has 5 motors, 2 with Red Coils, and 3 with Green Coils.
To begin the service we start by removing the 3 Indicator Maintaining Small Plates, and Date Indicator.
A 1.4mm screwdriver is all the is needed for every screw on the movement.
Here's a reference photo of the 3 screws for the Indicator Maintaining Small Plates.
There are no more components to remove from the dial side of the movement.
Once the movement is turned over, remove the 2 screws that hold the Magnetic Screen.
Once the Magnetic Screen is removed all the coils are very exposed, so work around these coils with great care.
Here's a reference photo of the 2 screws for the Magnetic Screen.
Next unscrew the 6 screws holding the Additional Printed Circuit and gently lift it off the movement.
Store the Additional Printed Circuit away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the 6 screws for the Additional Printed Circuit.
Next we tackle the 2 trains with the red coils.
Right Side - Minute Counter
Left Side - Hour Counter
The right and left trains contain different size wheels and should be kept separate for ease of assembly.
We shall start with the right side.
Remove the Minute Counter Bridge
Next remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Next remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corosponding screws.
Note the 4 spokes on the Minute Counting Wheel.
Remove the Hour Counter Bridge.
Remove the Gear Train and the Rotor.
Remove the Coil and Stator.
Store the Coil away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components.
Note the 3 spokes on the Hour Counting Wheel.
Store these 2 trains in separate sections in your parts tray, and when cleaning store them in sparate parts containers.
Next remove the Chronograph Bridge
Now remove the Chronograph Wheel
Unscrew the Green Coils and remove them.
Store the Coils away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Here's a reference photo of the components and their corresponding screws.
Remove the Train Wheel Bridge.
Remove the Wheels of the Train.
This is quite a complex train of wheels.
So to assist you I've cleaned up the rather cluttered schematic supplied by ETA and colour coded each wheel and it's location on the Main Plate.
Here's a reference photo of the top of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
And also the underneath of the wheels, also colour coded to assist you.
Remove the Rotors and Stators.
Unscrew the 3 screws that hold the Upper Plate and remove it.
Here's a reference photo of the Upper Plate, Connector, and the corosponding screws.
This now exposes the Electronic Module.
Remove the Stop Lever/Switch
Remove the Cannon Pinion with Driver.
Then remove the Electronic Module.
Pull out the Stem and Sliding Pinion.
Now store the Electronic Module away separately and safe from the rest of the parts.
Remove the Minute Wheel, the Hour Wheel, and Contact Intermediate Wheel.
Before we can remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel, we need to pull back the Date Jumper.
Gently lift the tab (Yellow Arrow) until it's at plate level and pull it backwards.
This will pull the arm of the Date Jumper back and allow you to remove the wheel.
Here's a reference photo of the wheels.
Lastly we need to remove the keyless work.
Unscrew the Setting Lever Spring and then remove the Setting Lever, Yoke, Driving Wheel, Internediate Setting Wheel No.1, and the Setting Wheel
Here's a reference photo of the Keyless Work.
The movement is now completely disassembled.
I hope you've enjoyed this disassembly walkthrough and found it's given you the information and confidence to tackle this tricky but rewarding quartz movement.
I will post the assembly procedures tomorrow, Lord willing :)
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That phrase sets the cliche "parsimonious Scotsman" in me in "to how could I do that better (i.e. cheaper) mode".... I presume that it works by twitching that control arm, and "listening" to the resulting resonance, then repeatedly tweaking the frequency of the "twitch" until maximum amplitude is obtained. Does anybody know if my presumptions are correct?
Here are a few more little Timex Group related facts. Shortly after purchasing the Waterbury Clock Company in 1941, founder Thomas Olsen renamed the company Timex, as a portmanteau of Time (referring to Time magazine) and Kleenex. The Fred Olsen group is also one of the Scotland's large land owners, which makes them one of the handful of entities that "own" Scotland, as a result of its arcane and feudal land laws. More interesting history here -> http://www.andywightman.com/archives/category/who-owns-scotland Now I'm not suggesting we go quite as far as this guy, but... ... the current situation of "land management" (i.e. large slash and burn "grouse moors" and industrial scale toilet roll farming) is unsustainable in the long term. We do need a rethink.