Jump to content

Cheap Pegwood


SSTEEL

Recommended Posts

Hi

 

I was trying to find the home made tools thread to post this but I couldn't.

 

Anyway, I have been using Souvlaki skewers for pegwood. I love the sharp point! Try as I might I can't get a pegwood anywhere near that sharp.

 

Someone mentioned chopsticks but I find them a little thick for my purposes.

 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do'nt do it - you will end up making new tools for/with you lathe all the time!   ;)

 

 

 

Thank you!

 

I must admitt that I usually end up using my small mill when refinishing cases - easy to adjust the angle of the disc, the hight e.t.c. e.t.c. and standard collets makes life easy! :)

 

141995917496339800_resized.jpg

 

A badly beat up Speedy MKII case lapped in the machine above using a 305mm disk with 240 grit paper.

 

144519983028364200_resized.jpg

Amazing job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

Hello, I am new to this forum, hope to be joining the right thread.

While watching Mark's course, I ordered my first tools and the clone movement. But it takes an astonishing 50 days for them to arrive... :(

So to gain time, and procrastinate a bit from my real work (lute making) I started making a few basic tools.  But finding the right profiles to copy is challenging. So many angles for the hand levers... I chose 30 degrees, and repurposed some useless screwdrivers I had around. 

Next the oil containers..which size? Is it critical to have small concave pools? Or they can be 8-10 mm wide? I used some camera lenses, with concave surfaces. Cannot imagine something closer to the agathe or cristal used on the professional ones. For the caps, I used more lenses. The container seems tight enough to hold the dust outside, while good enough to concentrate the puddle of oil on the center. One interesting effect I found is that with the cap (the second lenses) I can see magnified how contaminated my oil already is...

Then the oil needles.. The shape is easy to copy, once you find close images of fine oilers, but what kind of surface transports oil best? Shiny or matte? ( when cleaning the dippers, it seems that a shiny surface is best for assuring nothing remains on the tool..)

 

 

tools.JPG

tools_2.JPG

tools_3.JPG

tools4.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

While Ebay still drag on indefinitely on the delivery of my tools, I finished the first part of Mark's course. I will not crowd the thread of the course with another review, but it was great! The pace is good for non native speakers, and the strategic choice of going for the bare minimum of tools make the endeavour  more realistic for people like me.  

 I noticed that in the thread of bronze tweezers nobody questioned that bergeon and others (cousin's website) advertise their tweezers as brass. So, Brass or Bronze? I was about to fit brass tips to a really shit pair of tweezers I have. But in doubt, I chose to make them in boxwood... 

I got a laser cutter that is now gathering dust. Does not really help me in lute making. But if anybody fancy designing a perspex tweezer holder, I would be happy to cut and post it. It cost nothing to make something like the model you have been discussing...Send me real pegwood in exchange... I refuse to buy it, but never saw the real thing.. :)

 

 

tools4_1.JPG

tools4.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the tweezers, I have both brass and bronze. I've settled on the bronze tweezers as my main pair,  as they are slightly harder that the brass. With the brass, I had problems keeping the tips in good shape. The bronze is still soft enough that I don't worry about scratching parts, and less springy than my steel ones so I get fewer parts pinging off into the ether.

I think your boxwood tweezers will do just fine for a start. As far as pegwood is concerned, it is just round sticks of (i believe) boxwood, about the diameter of a toothpick.

Have Fun!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@marcoskaiser you're REALLY good at what you do !!! RESPECT
Are you a professional luthier ?

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk



Thanks manodeoro. Yes, that’s my profession. Guess most people here have some kind of mechanics background...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was a band teacher for years and it was always necessary to do smaller fixes on band instruments; saxophones were the most prone to small dings causing problems with pad seating.

At seventy, I still teach a small community band with the same instrument problems.

During the other part of my life I was a concert piano technician and I also did complete overhauls to many different makes of piano. So, does that make me a kind of luthier?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks manodeoro. Yes, that’s my profession. Guess most people here have some kind of mechanics background...
You're welcome, and you really deserve congrats.
May I ask which sort of material you can cut with your laser cutter ?

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, marcoskaiser said:

 


Only perspex, up to 10mm, and thin sheets of wood. A4 size

 

Too bad ... I hoped you could cut and/or engrave copper plates to make custom dials.

So I'll have to keep on working on my project of a rotating stand for dial engraving

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
On 10/5/2015 at 11:36 AM, Geo said:

Here's a few.

 

I made this today for tightening the nut when replaing a rotor bearing on an Omega 1120.

 

post-124-0-46403500-1444054981_thumb.jpg

 

post-124-0-77825300-1444055712_thumb.jpg

 

post-124-0-54034900-1444055024_thumb.jpg

 

 

Pair of levers (only one shown) great for hands and especialy snap case backs.

 

post-124-0-40630000-1444055135_thumb.jpg

 

 

Balance tack.

 

post-124-0-50790800-1444055174_thumb.jpg

 

 

Minute hand puller for an Atmos clock.

 

post-124-0-00118100-1444055483_thumb.jpg

 

 

Movement holder for Atmos clock.

 

post-124-0-18894900-1444055539_thumb.jpg

Took your example and made me a balance tack as well. With an extra hole for a k&d tool that was hanging around without a base.

96C090AD-2BDB-4492-B0D8-AA5B0406FB3A.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Somewhere in the back of my mind i thought you had the jewelled seitz pivot gauge, i was just asking if you had this scaled pin gauge as well. I might have just made up that thought  H. 😅
    • Yes, but the idea was that the OP wanted to be able to measure the diameter of the jewel holes in his collection of unordered jewels. Also, depending on the type of micrometre used one has to be careful not to dent the very small pivots (< 0.12mm) when pinching them in the micrometre. In my experience, the JKA Feintaster is safe to use also when measuring very small pivots. I don't understand your question, which I think was for me, no?
    • I didn't think there were any gauges under 0.1  .  I do like the old art deco tanks which are small sizes. My staff stash amounts to around half a mil. So i think I probably have that base covered. This 0.1mm set seems to be the most expensive, larger 100 piece set are about half the price. For around a 100 quid you can have sizes from 0.1 up to 4mm. Bugs me that they charge shipping for each seperate item so no combined shipping fee available.  Do you have the variable pin gauge as well ?
    • Yes, I understand that indeed.   Which is exactly what I am lacking, as I said. That's why the ring diameter matters to me.   That matches my anecdotal observation indeed. It could be the material or the modern backward curve that provides more power.   This is an interesting topic!  While these old oils were maybe thinner, their friction-reducing effect may still actually be lower than modern (even thicker oils), no? I man, some old, thin, organic oil may be less effective in reducing friction than a modern, thick HP1300 or so. What do you think?
    • Here are a couple of pictures of the tool that I mentioned in my first reply: Got the picture from here: https://klocksnack.se/threads/hobby-hörna-hemma-verktyg-tips-och-trix.163821/#post-4291582
×
×
  • Create New...