Jump to content

Cheap Pegwood


SSTEEL

Recommended Posts

As everyone know, some tools can be somewhat overpriced for what they are, take the Bergeon dial working platform for example.

 

21941361401_e28ff56732_b.jpgBergeon_7053_ by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

BERGEON do sell some great tools of high quality, but the prices are crazy at times, the above dial platform retails at €189 euros.

 

I decided there is no way I would pay that much, and then started looking at how I could make my own, it couldn't be too difficult, right?

 

Here's what I came up with, not pretty, but it works, its a hockey puck, and I drilled lots of small diameter holes in the one side.

 

Hockey puck costs €3 euros delivered.

 

Started life like this.

 

11884909973_804a1ee154.jpgHockey Puck by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

9721568379_5c1289802a_k.jpgMy Bergeon Alternative watch dial platform project by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

After some drilling..

 

21310617573_87a87f19fd_k.jpgUntitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

And here's another tool I made for a special case back screw design.

 

14503871614_9f33eed0c8_k.jpgUntitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

Other thing I use, instead of Bergeon dial protectors when removing hands, I use a clean ziplock bag..

 

Oh, and a bonus item I made is this microphone dust cover.

 

21645633756_a6cceb3182_k.jpgUntitled by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

 

Lets see what tools you have made to make your watchmaking more enjoyable without breaking the bank. :)

Edited by SSTEEL
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a few.

 

I made this today for tightening the nut when replaing a rotor bearing on an Omega 1120.

 

post-124-0-46403500-1444054981_thumb.jpg

 

post-124-0-77825300-1444055712_thumb.jpg

 

post-124-0-54034900-1444055024_thumb.jpg

 

 

Pair of levers (only one shown) great for hands and especialy snap case backs.

 

post-124-0-40630000-1444055135_thumb.jpg

 

 

Balance tack.

 

post-124-0-50790800-1444055174_thumb.jpg

 

 

Minute hand puller for an Atmos clock.

 

post-124-0-00118100-1444055483_thumb.jpg

 

 

Movement holder for Atmos clock.

 

post-124-0-18894900-1444055539_thumb.jpg

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a few.

 

I made this today for tightening the nut when replaing a rotor bearing on an Omega 1120.

 

attachicon.gifbearing-tool-1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifbearing-tool-2.jpg

 

attachicon.gifbearing-tool-3.jpg

 

 

Pair of levers (only one shown) great for hands and especialy snap case backs.

 

attachicon.giflever.jpg

 

 

Balance tack.

 

attachicon.giftack.jpg

 

 

Minute hand puller for an Atmos clock.

 

attachicon.gif1.jpg

 

 

Movement holder for Atmos clock.

 

attachicon.gif2.jpg

Balance tack looks great .Tell us/me more?  Want to do one for myself . What material did u use?  Diameter of puck?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Here are some of my "tools"

 

Small tiltable table for one of my lathes

 

141172655514270400_resized.jpg

 

larger tiltable table for lapping

 

141756684327587600_resized.jpg

 

141756684269732000_resized.jpg

 

Lappingmachine for cases

 

142359347537395800_resized.jpg

 

Simple chuck

 

141756684296250400_resized.jpg

 

144113122856684500_resized.jpg

 

"Adapters" for case opener 5700 to open Speedmaster MKII cases, Heuers etc

 

142550996099402200_resized.jpg

 

Stand for oilers, anodized aluminium

 

143103675684819700_resized.jpg

 

Demagitizer

 

143420609075783200_resized.jpg

 

....and much more - I almost like making tools/machines more than refinishing watches!  :D

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superb set up there for lapping and case refinishing, love it.  Thanks for sharing, I so cannot wait until I get my own lathe :)

 

Do'nt do it - you will end up making new tools for/with you lathe all the time!   ;)

 

 

Some good stuff there RCD, and a warm welcome to the forum. Your case refinishing kit reminds me that I still have an Omega Chronostop case that I must get around to finishing.

 

Thank you!

 

I must admitt that I usually end up using my small mill when refinishing cases - easy to adjust the angle of the disc, the hight e.t.c. e.t.c. and standard collets makes life easy! :)

 

141995917496339800_resized.jpg

 

A badly beat up Speedy MKII case lapped in the machine above using a 305mm disk with 240 grit paper.

 

144519983028364200_resized.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do'nt do it - you will end up making new tools for/with you lathe all the time!   ;)

 

 

 

Thank you!

 

I must admitt that I usually end up using my small mill when refinishing cases - easy to adjust the angle of the disc, the hight e.t.c. e.t.c. and standard collets makes life easy! :)

 

141995917496339800_resized.jpg

 

A badly beat up Speedy MKII case lapped in the machine above using a 305mm disk with 240 grit paper.

 

144519983028364200_resized.jpg

You have some fantastic tools there your workshop must be of some size. Unfortunately my workshop is a converted small bedroom so such tools are just not possible. Maybe when I get that Lotto up !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...