Hi, I’m trying to replace the crystal on this expedition. I have pulled the stem and the movement. The crystal was shattered. It seems to be a 29.5mm crystal with a 1mm depth. I don’t see a gasket. How would I apply the new crystal? Does it press without a gasket?
Thank you for any help provided!
Hey guys, my name is Lorenz. I am an 18 year old electrical engineering student from Germany.
I got this Breitling chronospace a56012.1 from my granddad and I want to repair it.
Besides a slight clicking noise while turning the crown ( someone please let me know if this is normal ) it works just fine.
My main problem is that the black color on the Bezel is worn out on some positions and I dont know where to find a paint that holds on the metal nor do I know how to paint it again.
I have worked with watches already, I disassembled a mechanical movement cleaned and oiled it again so I feel pretty confident in doing this job.
And I would also like to change out the crystal, does anyone know what size crystal I need for this watch?
Thanks in regards for any advice.
Any advice out there for cleaning/polishing watch crystal glass?
I know there are videos upon videos on howto clean acrylic watch crystal glass using toothpaste, Cape Cod cloths, an old toothbrush, etc.
However, I am trying to get a number of scratches out of a watch crystal I have taken the movement out of. It is for me a "tester".
I am fairly sure that this "tester" watch crystal is glass.
I have sandpaper (wet/dry) and I have a Cape Cod cloth which I have just started using.
I think you can see the scratches in question in the pics.
So, what I have done so far is use 400-grit sandpaper to scrub across the grain of the scratches. I have also tried scrubbing in a circular motion.
Maybe I am just not very persistent at this. I scrubbed for some time. But all I can see is that NOTHING is disappearing, and the only thing that IS happening is that now the whole glass is covered in a new set of sandpaper-made marks.
Maybe I can use the Cape Cod cloth to get these out. Maybe I can use the other 1500-grit sandpaper to smooth things out too.
This process looks so easy in the various Youtube videos. yes, I know these things can take time, but HOW LONG?? This is NOT one of the fun sides of watch repair that I am looking forward to doing now or, in fact, any time.
I really thought that it would be the case that - scratches and marks on the crystal? No problem! I can get them out! :)
But perhaps I was naive (?)
How long should I be scrubbing with the sandpaper? Is 400-grit not enough? Should I get more coarse sandpaper?
Hi everyone. Some vintage oris stop running not long after cleaned, I am sure the problem is common with vintage oris 677 kif and 704 kif.since I got many of them. I think of worn down staffs or weak main spring as the cause.
Interestingly dropping one drop of aircraft fuel on top of the upper and lower jewels of balance wheel only and it fly like combat jet.
Lots of hope to recieve your opinion.
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As we all know, our world has been deeply shaken. Lifestyles, routines and every partXa,a of our lives have been effected in some way. This is equally true for our children. Their academic and social life's have also been upended. As a father of 4 who range in age from 15 to 24 this new reality is all too acute. My youngest two are still in high school with one a freshman and one a sophomore. They have been pretty much on their own with getting their online classes up to date and completed. My daughter, who is also my youngest, has been on task the entire time, she had finished her work last week. My 17 year old son has procrastinated much of the entire time. 4 weeks ago he was in danger of flunking. So, as an incentive, I offered to get him his favorite watch which is a duplicate of mine if he finished with at least a C average in each class. In this case, it's a 1978 Timex Falcon Eye. Thankfully I had found one for an absolutely fantastic price, a steal to be honest. When it arrived, it was pristine! Tonight was his final night. The final assignments were due. He plugged away and by 9:45pm, he crossed the finish line! And as required, no class was below a C grade point average. In fact, only one was a C, the rest were comfortably within B and A averages. I'm very proud of him and it was a Thrill and an honor to present his watch to him. For fun, I had him put on his new watch but told him he was trying on my watch to see how victory feels. He was all smiles and kept saying how awesome the watch is. Then I held up mine on my wrist and put it next to his and said, yep, it's almost as cool as mine! He was like, What!? Is this mine? No way! He was so excited! Totally worth the wait. Here they are, two of the finest original 1978 Timex Falcon Eye's you'll likely ever see!
Pictures don’t always help so I always use these compartment trays, these I get from a hobby store in the paint section. But Esslinger sells nice ones with lids....each piece I remove goes into one compartment with its respective screws. Each compartment represents a step. When i reassemble I work backwards. As far as a bridge that uses different length screws you can always attach the bridge and look from the sides and tell where longer screws will go. Or by seeing where they screw in from under. Kinda hard to explain but just observe and you will get the picture.
Hi Everyone! I have been practicing watch servicing these past months. So far I have successfully serviced a ST36 (ETA6497 clone), thanks to Mark's watch repair course which is awesome! I have also tried to service a NH25A, and messed up the hairpsring (replacement on the way), and a Miyota 8215. Everything was going well with the 8215 until I reassembled the train bridge and noticed that the escape wheel wobbles when I turn the wheels. My guess is that I accidentally broke off the upper pivot during cleaning. I was looking for a replacement escape wheel and found it at Cousin's, but they are out of stock. Anyone know any other place I could get one? Thanks. PS: Trying to keep a positive attitude after messing up two movements, but practice makes perfect. :)
Don't think of it as math so much as relationships. F=KX is (F) Force equals (K) spring k/constant times (X) displacement. You're only really worried with how they relate to each other, not anything more precise. If you multiply numbers together, the result is bigger; if you divide them, the result is smaller. The end. Force is exactly what you think it is. Displacement is a fancy word for distance. The spring k/constant is how stiff the spring is. For watchmakers, the important part here is that we can split apart the mainspring into component parts of stiffness (*) and distance (effective length; effective, because it's typically preferred that a spring is never fully wound or unwound for better isochronism). * Stiffness in a mainspring is typically a function of its thickness, but if you have a really old coil mainspring vs a modern S spring, or an old school spring steel vs a modern alloy, or maybe the spring has set, these can all play a part. The gear ratios in a gear train are fixed. For every release of the escapement, a certain degree of rotation of the mainspring barrel is unwound from the mainspring. That makes analysis even easier, because X is constant per beat. You simply get more X with a longer spring in the form of more beats. Assuming everything else is in proper fettle, you have a finite amount of room in the mainspring barrel into which you can stuff a spring. That stuffing happens across the dimensions of length, and thickness; dimensions that correspond directly with X and K respectively. If it's too strong, the balance over banks, and you gotta problem. Additionally, but to a lesser degree, if your amplitude is higher than is required for isochronism, it's really not doing you any good, and is just a waste of spring. Too weak, and amplitude is low, and error creeps in (anisochronism). So you need a spring that is stiff enough to get you a good enough amplitude to ensure isochrony, but otherwise as long as you can to maximize power reserve. If everything else is good, then you add a new mainspring which measures .007 thicker and feels harder (aka stiffer or higher K) and is .05 shorter (lower X), that's the precise recipe, according to Hooke's law, for a good amplitude but short power reserve. You made K larger, and X smaller, you just don't know the precise magnitude of each change... You can see through your amplitude that F is larger than would be expected for a given distance of mainspring travel since, per swing of the balance, X is fixed, that means K is higher than it should be. You can further see through the short power reserve that the overall X of the spring is shortened. 312° is a really high amplitude; probably higher than just about any manufacturer requires for isochronistic reasons... On top of that, It sounds like Citizen kinda sucks for documentation, but they seem to be in the same school as Seiko who is good with documentation, and is known for preferring unusually low amplitudes while still achieving reasonable isochronism. Given that the point of a high amplitude is to mitigate anisochrony, they're going at the isochronism problem from a different angle (whatever that is, I don't know yet). I would shoot for a typical Seiko level amplitude, see how the power reserve comes out, then check isochronism against your preferred/available of spec or personal standard. This has nothing to do with braking grease, internal barrel features, bridle wear, or anything else. Just the isolated variables as described. Also worth noting, this is how Roger Smith (George Daniels' protegé) chooses mainsprings for his highly esteemed movements according to... him in his own lectures**. Also also worth noting... I'm about as nooby a noob that ever noobed, so consider the entire manifesto above in that light. Bottom line: Get a new mainspring that's thinner and longer. Since the alloy appears to be different, you may go more than a single step thinner, and see how long you can go and still functionally fit in the barrel. This, again, is inferred from the Roger Smith lecture, and he specifically states that he has a huge assortment of mainsprings at his disposal**, so YMMV. **I think this is the lecture, but it's not exactly the key focus, and was really just a side note at some point... I don't remember where in the hour and change it came up or why, I'm just one of those people who remembers trivial details like that...