Jump to content

A Couple Of My Vintage Watches


Spandrel

Recommended Posts

A quick shot of two of my vintage watches. On the left is a jump hour digital Sindaco watch from the the 1970's. It is running but needs hairspring manipulation to put it in beat and separate the coils. I may have a go as although the movement in these watches is basic in the extreme, it is in very good condition with its original plastic strap. The other watch has great sentimental value to me as it was a gift from a relative when I achieved a place in grammar school way back in the 1960's. I was taken to an upmarket jewellers and told to pick a watch from a selection, none of which were cheap by the standards of the day. It is a Roamer Vanguard with a beautiful 17 jewel movement and I wore it every day from the day I received it up until a few years ago when it ran out of ticks. The only repair needed has been a new crystal after I broke the original when my motorcycle and I involuntarily parted company. That also accounts for the tiny scratch on the face.

 

Anyway it is now running perfectly again having been serviced and is now worn regularly again.

 

 

post-1689-0-07695900-1451745693_thumb.jp

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

very nice watches. i always liked jump hour watches and i know little about sindaco. i have an old seiko that needs the same hairspring work.

roamers are one of my favorite.

oh - and welcome to the forum. post often - with pics. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

re the hairspring coils touching,

 

If no one has messed with the watch and the coils are touching, it could just be a case of the watch being magnetized... I would check this first before trying to physically adjust the coils.

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I second that.. they really tried to get their watches waterproof as much as was possible back in the day. Most of their watches from the 60s have the 'brevet' cases where you need to press down on the glass and the caseback and crystal come out together as a unit.

 

Only downside is that the cases are frequently base metal and also the fact that they'e quite small...

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum. Beautiful watches. What's the movement of the Sindaco? I have a bunch of parts for jump hour movements--mostly Bettlach and Baumgartner. I'd be happy to help get it working properly if possible.

 

JC

That is very kind of you. I will post a photograph of the movement as soon as I have cleared my workbench. I am servicing a friend's 1960's Garrard at present and the regulator lever is giving me some grief as it refuses to stay on the cock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a photograph of the Sindaco movement. It appers to be an in-house effort with the grand total of one jewel! If you look closely you can see the hairspring coils are bound.

 

attachicon.gifSindaco movement.jpg

Tha is definitely a bettlach (ebauches bettlach  EB). I can't see the movement caliber, but is it 8481-74? I might have a few of these with a good hairspring somewhere, but I need the caliber to be sure. EB made one jewel and 17 jewel variants of these and there are still a few floating around on the 'bay but they're getting more difficult to find in NOS or even working condition.

 

JC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tha is definitely a bettlach (ebauches bettlach  EB). I can't see the movement caliber, but is it 8481-74? I might have a few of these with a good hairspring somewhere, but I need the caliber to be sure. EB made one jewel and 17 jewel variants of these and there are still a few floating around on the 'bay but they're getting more difficult to find in NOS or even working condition.

 

JC

You are correct. The caliber number is underneath the balance with a monogrammed "EB". The caliber number is 8491.74. I had assumed it was a Sindaco movement as it has their name on the train bridge. You would save me one heck of a lot of work if you have a hairspring or better still, a balance and cock assembly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are correct. The caliber number is underneath the balance with a monogrammed "EB". The caliber number is 8491.74. I had assumed it was a Sindaco movement as it has their name on the train bridge. You would save me one heck of a lot of work if you have a hairspring or better still, a balance and cock assembly.

Hello,

Sorry for the delay. I am super-busy with school and stuff. I checked my spare movements and I have an EB 8481-73 and EB 8461-73. Both are working. Can you do some research to verify compatibility at least with the balance? We could arrange shipping if you figure out whether one of the two would work for your needs.

 

Regards,

JC

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Spandrel...thanks to another member here (the knowledgeable Roberto) I discovered that my jump hour watch branded "Jaguar" (which locked Sindaco in court battles with Jaguar cars for years) was made by Sindaco.  My watch is a very different design to yours but it uses the Bettlach 17 jewel Roskopf-mechanism movement.  The one jewel and 17 jewel movement are very similar, the only difference being the number of jewels used.  If your movement has had it, why not think about replacing it with the 17 jewel movement?  My watch was given to me by my father when I was 12.  He bought it in Singapore on his way home from a European trip.  It still runs well...keeps good time and the only thing which has become a bit of a bother is that the crown is a bit hard to wind.  The 17 jewel EB movement, despite its generally crude design was as tough as nails.

 

Here's my watch:

15x346.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spandrel...thanks to another member here (the knowledgeable Roberto) I discovered that my jump hour watch branded "Jaguar" (which locked Sindaco in court battles with Jaguar cars for years) was made by Sindaco.  My watch is a very different design to yours but it uses the Bettlach 17 jewel Roskopf-mechanism movement.  The one jewel and 17 jewel movement are very similar, the only difference being the number of jewels used.  If your movement has had it, why not think about replacing it with the 17 jewel movement?  My watch was given to me by my father when I was 12.  He bought it in Singapore on his way home from a European trip.  It still runs well...keeps good time and the only thing which has become a bit of a bother is that the crown is a bit hard to wind.  The 17 jewel EB movement, despite its generally crude design was as tough as nails.

 

Here's my watch:

15x346.jpg

The Ebauches Bettlach are tough indeed--I have both 1 jewel and 17 jewel variants.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information and photographs. Sindaco/Jaguar certainly produced some "different" watches. If I can't reair the movement in my Sindaco I will try to hunt down a replacement (although I have no idae where from!) but I would like to have a real attempt at sorting out my hairspring. It will be a while as I am just getting over a horrible dose of some infection or other and I haven't been at my bench for a couple of weeks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

Sorry for the delay. I am super-busy with school and stuff. I checked my spare movements and I have an EB 8481-73 and EB 8461-73. Both are working. Can you do some research to verify compatibility at least with the balance? We could arrange shipping if you figure out whether one of the two would work for your needs.

Regards,

JC

Do you have any spare 6139 movements?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not familiar with EB 6139. Do you have a picture of it? 

 

JC

I did a full image search on Google and other search engines (like Duck Duck Go) and all I could find was this (EB 8021):

 

IMG_0903.JPG

 

 

There is no reference for a "EB 6139" movement I could find but Seiko have a movement with the same number.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many thanks to all who have responded with offers and links to information. I have greatly surprised myself, but after over eigteen hours (not at one sitting!) I have succeeded in re-shaping the hairspring and the Sindaco is at this moment ticking merrily away albeit as an ebauche at present. I found I did not need to disconnect the spring from the stud but I did remove the collet from the staff. This was the first time I had attempted to do this and it wasn't as tricky as I thougfht it would be. Replacing it was a tad fraught though! The majority of the time taken was in assessing the spring after each tiny adjustment, and many times I had need to "undo" a previous tweak and replace it with another. Boy this was some steep learning curve!

 

Now to persuade Mrs Spandrel I need a timegrapher.

Edited by Spandrel
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...
  • 7 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
    • The stress is the force (on the spring) x distance. The maximum stress is at the bottom, and decreases up the arm. That's why they always break at the bottom. I used a round file, then something like 2000 grit to finish. I gave the rest of the arm a quick polish - no need for a perfect finish. Just make sure there are no 'notches' left from cutting/filing. The notches act like the perforations in your toilet paper 🤣
    • It's probably a cardinal rule for watch repair to never get distracted while at the bench. Yesterday, after finishing a tricky mainspring winding/barrel insertion (I didn't have a winder and arbor that fit very well) I mentally shifted down a gear once that hurdle was passed. There were other things going on in the room as I put the barrel and cover into the barrel closer and pressed to get that satisfying snap. But when I took it out I realized I never placed the arbor.  When opening a barrel, we are relying on the arbor to transfer a concentrically-distributed force right where it is needed at the internal center of the lid. However, when that isn't present it's difficult to apply pressure or get leverage considering the recessed position of the lid, the small holes in the barrel and the presence of the mainspring coils. It was a beat-up practice movement so I didn't take a lot of time to think it over and I pushed it out using a short right-angle dental probe placed in from the bottom, but that did leave a bit of a scratch and crease in the thin lid. I had also thought about pulling it using a course-threaded screw with a minor thread diameter smaller than the lid hole and a major diameter larger, but that may have done some damage as well.  Thinking about how this might have been handled had it been a more valuable movement, is there a method using watchmaking or other tools that should extract the lid with the least damage? 
    • 🤔 what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ? Making a small groove so the lubrication doesn't spread across the component but what if when lubing a little overspills and sits on the epilame .
×
×
  • Create New...