Jump to content

Help With Tudor 2671 Winding Stem Removal


Recommended Posts

I have attatched a picture or 2 is there a screw on this movement or a button type release on this 2671 Tudor Princess Date movement

I need to remove the stem.

Let me know the steps to take and how it should be prepped.

Thanks

post-144-0-94268700-1396536776_thumb.jpg

post-144-0-90017900-1396536778_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

any idea how far to push it in, I hear that some movements if you push down to far it might mess things up. Sorry I'm not technical when it comes to the wording. Just the basics like crown,crystal,stem, rotor etc.

i will give that a try

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure others who have done this more than I will give you direction...

 

But, From what I can remember, use a screw driver about the same width as the slot to push the pin in. You don't want to push the pin is farther than the slot shoulders will allow as this will cause the retaining pin to slip out of place. Then it may require disassembly to replace the retaining mechanism

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just don't push it in when you refit the stem, you should be able to turn it back into the movement without touching the button, its often when you put the stem back in you get problems with it disappearing (if you push it)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got it out but now I can't seem to get the movement straight into the case. I had to remove one case clamp and screw on one side to get the movement to slip in level now not sure how to put back the case clamp. Wish there was some sort of video on the removal and replacement of the 2671 Tudor movement.

I will keep looking to try and figure it out. This is my first time. The watch came with the movement out of the case so it could be called watch parts for customs reasons. Now just have to put it back together.

post-144-0-72319900-1396540381_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think that is even the right clip for this application(?) I would guess it should look just live the other retaining clip on the other side of the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...