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I'm fixing up another Landeron 48 - this will be my 4th one of these so I'm getting the hang of these a bit. I got it as a non-runner (pallet fork pivot broken, barrel tooth broken) and replaced those so that it runs ok. 
 

Reassembling the chronograph I've hit a snag. The watch stops when the chrono is engaged. I think the teeth are too deep. I think the eccentric to adjust that is on the hammer, circled in the picture. It won't move. Any suggestions?

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    • My apologies if I'm still getting the terminology wrong. I'm trying to differentiate between the flat jewel with no hole, and the one beneath it with a hole. The pivot goes through the latter, obviously, and then abuts the former. Any recommendations on how to measure the desired 0.15mm without a micrometer? I think there are a few big takeaways for me at this point: Pivots really need to match their corresponding jewel holes to within some small tolerance. Too small is bad and so is too big. Jewel variation is a real thing...you can't go based off specs, especially if your jewels have been replaced (possibly with the wrong ones) Measurement tools for pivots are very expensive (e.g., Seitz jewel gauges). Based on some additional outside reading, it seems like the use of micrometers to measure pivots is discouraged because it's too easy to cause damage. Plus, bench micrometers are too expensive anyway. BOTTOM LINE: Test the pivots in the actual jewels in which they're supposed to be seated  How well would the following work: Mount the pivot vertically in some pith wood in the same orientation it would have looking top down on the balance cock Put the hole jewel on top of the pivot and check to see if (1) it fits on the pivot easily and (2) the pivot is sticking out the top an adequate amount so that it will abut the cap stone (0.15mm?) If the above are true, and the pivot also fits in the bottom jewel, then I could safely mount the staff in the balance wheel, without mainspring, attach the balance, then test to see how freely the wheel spins. Is that a workable plan? Also, as an aside, assuming I would use Moebius 9010 as a lubricant for these particular jewels?
    • Ok, several things more. There is no difference between cap stone and end stone. They are two names for one thing. The thing is the stone with no hole, with one flat polished side. You for sure must remove the jewel settings from the cock. Otherwise no way to check what is needed to check. You don't need micrometer. Probably newer will need one. At this point, You need to check if the pivot can get in the pivot hole of the hole jewel in a manner that the pivot top is at least 0.15 mm above the upper surface of the stone. No matter if it is the old staff or the new one.  
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