Question about Robur press tool
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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Re using the spring that comes out is always worth trying. If everything else is in good working order and the train and escapement are running with as little friction as possible then this spring could very well perform adequately. I would never put in a stronger spring to overcome excess friction. It would be wonderful if there was somewhere a list that held the torque rating that a spring should have and a device with which to test it....available to us mere mortal watch repairers...very wonderful indeed 🙂 -
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welcome to the forum, @akira7799 you could also go for this spring, available at Cousins: I sometimes find that it's good to go down in strength (height or thickness) ever so slightly, when going from an old spring to a new S-shaped one + upgrading to new synthetic lubricants. You may otherwise risk re-banking (if everything else in the movement is doing well). -
If possible, could you tell me the spring size of this? I have a clock of this type. -
It all depends how much you're willing to spend and if you're happy to try the old mainspring and see what results you get with the possibility of having to swap it at a later stage. The key sizes are the height and thickness with some flexibility on the length depending on the barrel size. If you look at the likes of Cousins for springs around the GR4486 Edit There are still some GR4486 out their. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126715574424?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=126715574424&ufes_redirect=true -
Older mainsprings look like that. The S shaped mainspring is a modern invention that is, as far as I know, better at providing the same torque across all states of wind. By modern I mean 1950-ish (someone will correct me on that I'm sure). Your old spring looks ok to my eyes: no kinks, healthy space between the coils. I'd just put it back, though others might replace it.
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