Jump to content

Question about regulating an ST2130


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I haven’t done anything to this movement since I got it so not sure of the status of oiling. However I put it into a watch for a bit of practice and thought I’d have a go at regulating it. Before I touched it it was showing about 14 seconds fast per day. I have moved the regulator screw to the point where the watch is now around 3 seconds a day. I guess that’s pretty good however it does not seem possible to make the watch run any slower. If I continue to turn the screw past where it is in the picture, the timing starts to speed up again. 

Is this to be expected?  I guess I thought that you should be able to regulate between running fast and slow to find the sweet spot.

thanks, Bill

IMG_9225.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Bill2024 said:

Hi all,

I haven’t done anything to this movement since I got it so not sure of the status of oiling. However I put it into a watch for a bit of practice and thought I’d have a go at regulating it. Before I touched it it was showing about 14 seconds fast per day. I have moved the regulator screw to the point where the watch is now around 3 seconds a day. I guess that’s pretty good however it does not seem possible to make the watch run any slower. If I continue to turn the screw past where it is in the picture, the timing starts to speed up again. 

Is this to be expected?  I guess I thought that you should be able to regulate between running fast and slow to find the sweet spot.

thanks, Bill

IMG_9225.jpeg

Yes that's to be expected. The eccentric screw is only for fine regulation. Maybe +/- 10 seconds or so. For bigger margins, you carefully need to move the regulator arm.

So first, move the fine regulation screw to the neutral position. The use the regulator arm until you you're within, let's say, +/- 5sec.. Then use the fine regulation screw again. 

It looks, however, as if your regulator arm is hidden under the automatic bridge... 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, Knebo said:

Yes that's to be expected. The eccentric screw is only for fine regulation. Maybe +/- 10 seconds or so. For bigger margins, you carefully need to move the regulator arm.

So first, move the fine regulation screw to the neutral position. The use the regulator arm until you you're within, let's say, +/- 5sec.. Then use the fine regulation screw again. 

It looks, however, as if your regulator arm is hidden under the automatic bridge... 

 

Thank you so much - I hadn’t worked out that there was the ability for both coarse and fine adjustment of the rate

I’ll take a look. 

Edited by Bill2024
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It all depends how much you're willing to spend and if you're happy to try the old mainspring and see what results you get with the possibility of having to swap it at a later stage. The key sizes are the height and thickness with some flexibility on the length depending on the barrel size. If you look at the likes of Cousins for springs around the GR4486 Edit There are still some GR4486 out their. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126715574424?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=126715574424&ufes_redirect=true
    • Older mainsprings look like that. The S shaped mainspring is a modern invention that is, as far as I know, better at providing the same torque across all states of wind. By modern I mean 1950-ish (someone will correct me on that I'm sure). Your old spring looks ok to my eyes: no kinks, healthy space between the coils. I'd just put it back, though others might replace it.
    • Hi All! I have an ST1686 that I am tearing down and rebuilding for my first service.  I got down to the mainspring barrel and opened it.  It was pretty dirty, so I unwound it to clean.  But it didn't look like a mainspring typically would like this stock mainspring photo from Wikipedia.  It was only spiral coiled and didn't flatten out.  I've attached a photo to accompany my poor rookie explanation. If this is abnormal, I'll need to source a replacement.  I see that the ST1686 takes a GR4486, but the GR4486 is discontinued.  I'm able to source a new old stock (NOS) spring on eBay, but what would be a good modern alternative to the GR4486 1.60mm high x .10mm thick x 300mm long x 9mm barrel diameter?  Do I look for slightly longer spring? Thinner spring?  Thicker spring?  I know the height and barrel diameter should probably need to stay the same, right? As far as the barrel goes, how do you tell the difference between the machined ridge to hold the end of the mainspring and a broken piece of mainspring that's stuck inside of the barrel?  I've attached photos of the end of the mainspring and the inside of the barrel.  I appreciate the help since I have no bearing for what "normal" looks like. Thanks for the help in advance! Dave
    • This is a very old thread and as stated by @tomh207 above it's unlikely you'll get a response.
    • Make sure you check the auto rotor bearing before you disassemble so you know it's OK. There are a couple of options for the mainspring from Cousins compared to the stupid eBay prices.
×
×
  • Create New...