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I was finally able to get my Nikon D3500 DSLR setup to use with my microscope. I want to thank @GuyMontag for modifying his 3D printed microscope adapter design so I could get the camera image to focus properly. The shorter adapter did the trick. His new design file allows for the easy customization of the height. The setup I ended up with is a F mount to M42 lens adapter, a M42 to M42 mm focusing helicoid, and the 3D printed microscope adapter to connect the DSLR to the microscope. This setup gives a much better field of view than the microscope camera, with 0.35X camera mount, setup that I was using. With minimum zoom, through the eyepieces I get a 57 mm field of view. Through the DSLR, I get about 60 mm FOV. There is vignetting in the corners, but I was rather expecting that. My goal was to get the whole movement in the FOV, which wasn't happening with the microscope camera setup. -
Hi Tom, thank you for the speedy reply. Yeah, following the instructions it will not allow me to change any of the subdials not in position 2 or 3. As for what you tell me in position 2 while holding the reset or start stop changing crown position only changes the hour hand as for position 3 same thing happens but it also moves the minute hand as it should. Am I missing something? -
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notice my quote of me? sometimes in my long-winded messages things may be perhaps get lost. But there's a reference to the spring and the entire watch can stop which I believe you're having now? which is why when you're having a problematic running watch you do not put things on that you do not need. So for instance you can remove the bridge and remove the pinion and see if the watch will run. the problem with this type of way of driving a secondhand is you end up with too much play between the driving gear and pinion. so basically that little tiny play in the pinion translates to the secondhand and the secondhand will drift around by quite a bit. so the spring has to provide enough force to keep the pinion in place but not to either stop the watch worst-case or reduce the amplitude down to an unacceptable amount. -
Hello everyone - this is my first post. I have a few older watches that need some TLC and I like to fix stuff, so this forum seems to be the perfect place for me!
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