Jump to content

My future projects - when I'm good enough


ChrisInOz

Recommended Posts

I'm just starting out with learning to service and repair watches,  but I have acquired a number of watches and movements to practice on.

Some things that have ended up in my collection I am setting aside at first,  until I have developed some skill,  and have become somewhat less clumsy and ignorant.  Mainly they are things that look like more of a challenge,  or that I think are a bit special and therefore I don't want to risk damaging them.

So here is the first one - it was in a group of about six pocket watch movements that I bought on EBay about fifteen years ago. It's an English key-wind fusee movement that I think is from some time around 1850.  Transaction details are lost in time,  but I think I paid about $50 for the six movements.

20240921_121827.thumb.jpg.60d5855f57a85d9243db68591747c86d.jpg  

20240921_121853.thumb.jpg.20a13a2046b75be9d9078754afe4b33b.jpg

It is signed by Savory and Sons of London.  According to Loomes,  they were active from 1839 to 1863.

The balance staff appears to be broken, but the fusee chain is intact and in place.

20240921_122518.thumb.jpg.aa697a2fd6b42b03049a8a8f490a74bf.jpg

 

20240921_122306.thumb.jpg.3bbd401c520dc22e4a756a121e832a93.jpg

The dial looks OK,  but there are no hands,  and the sub seconds arbor looks bent.   Of course,  there is no case. 

20240921_123058.thumb.jpg.937e755b0aa58d3aa57fa4768ad77a09.jpg

Question:  Would that square on the arbor be for setting the hands?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Strange how the movement is marked Coinhill but everywhere I look for Savory & Sons it's listed as Cornhill?

image.thumb.png.4739b4fd969137e419fdd2069d50bb1c.png

Spelling lost in translation...English engaving to English text lol. I think the engraver actually messed up and then tried to rectify it with a half attempted r. Notice the apostrophe over the r and the enlarged over the i dot with half the r.....and then he thought "oh fuk it " 😅

Thats a big piece to mess-up and have to remake , one of the lads may have done it and then probably got a good hiding when the old man saw it. 😅

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Strange how the movement is marked Coinhill but everywhere I look for Savory & Sons it's listed as Cornhill?

Wow!  I had been reading that as "Cornhill",  but when I compare it with the second "i",  I can see what you mean.   Now you've pointed it out,  it is impossible to unsee. 😅

 

6 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I think the engraver actually messed up and then tried to rectify it with a half attempted r. Notice the apostrophe over the r and the enlarged over the i dot with half the r.....and then he thought "oh fuk it " 😅

Probably ruined his whole day,  or worse.   I wonder if it was an apprentice,  and if he tried to cover up his own mistake,  or perhaps someone helped him.

6 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Thats a big piece to mess-up and have to remake , one of the lads may have done it and then probably got a good hiding when the old man saw it. 😅

I do wonder what life would have been like in that workshop,  40 years or so before my grandfather was born.  Like something from a Charles Dickens novel perhaps.   I don't suppose they would have imagined that 170 years later, their watch would end up in Australia,  with an amateur wondering about how to repair it.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, here's my next one.

Sometime around 2007,  I had the opportunity to buy some things from a clock and watch hobbyist who was moving to aged care.   Basically there were two cartons of stuff,  and he was asking for $100,  "take it or leave it."   One of the cartons had a number of chiming clock movements and chime blocks with their rods,  and these were what interested me at that time,  so I handed over the hundred and took the boxes home.

On arrival,  I unpacked the cartons,  and discovered I had also bought a couple of shoe boxes of watch parts,  including many crystals,  some balances and other things,  and a few wristwatches.

I put the watch items away in a cabinet,  and didn't look at them again until recently.  Some of the watches look interesting,  including a very lovely Bulova,  that seems to have nothing wrong with it except a broken crystal.

Another one,  a Seiko,  looked to be a real basket case.  It seems to have spent a number of years in "wristwatch hell." I can't imagine what happened to it to leave it in this condition:

20241206_191855.thumb.jpg.83343c9d0995fbd539c2ca8fd0a10839.jpg

Yes,  it's a 6139-6001.  Not quite a Pogue,  since I think this is an earlier model than the watch that the Colonel took to Skylab,  but still very interesting.

The dial looks corroded,  there are no hands,  the stem is broken,  the bezel ring looks really beat up, and the crystal is badly scuffed.

And it gets worse!

20241206_191928.thumb.jpg.6536111c510508977b2e1d02d067fdd2.jpg

There is rust.  The case ring seems to be wrongly fitted so that it jams the winding weight and also prevents the case back from being screwed on.

At least I still have the case back.  A 1971 model by the look of it.

20241206_192015.thumb.jpg.1aee2d9f2e73d8d5f7385527dd40e9b8.jpg

The watch appears to have been stored in  an open box in a garden shed for a number of years before I got it.  I now have it stored in a dust proof plastic box,  but when I took it out and put it on the mat to take these pictures,  I'm fairly sure some body parts of a long-dead cockroach fell out of it. 😱

(Sorry,  I didn't think to take a picture of those,  but I am confident that they were not anything made by Seiko.)

20241206_192155.thumb.jpg.2b91fa042883fb2c304065a378c130e4.jpg

Oh yes,  one of the pushers is also missing,  and the other one is jammed.  I have bought a replacement stem,  but just the basic one,  not the one with the small wheel that operates the inner ring.

I know that parts for these are very expensive,  and original dials impossible,  so what do you think guys?

Would you say that this one is too far gone to be worth restoring,  or should I give it a try when I have enough experience to work on a chronograph movement?

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be interesting to see the dial once the crystal has been removed.

I've seen worse bezels on watches being sold and the movement doesn't look
in too bad a state and NOS parts are still available if not a donor movement.

Edit

Just realised that looks like the wrong crown.

Edited by AndyGSi
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, ChrisInOz said:

OK, here's my next one.

Sometime around 2007,  I had the opportunity to buy some things from a clock and watch hobbyist who was moving to aged care.   Basically there were two cartons of stuff,  and he was asking for $100,  "take it or leave it."   One of the cartons had a number of chiming clock movements and chime blocks with their rods,  and these were what interested me at that time,  so I handed over the hundred and took the boxes home.

On arrival,  I unpacked the cartons,  and discovered I had also bought a couple of shoe boxes of watch parts,  including many crystals,  some balances and other things,  and a few wristwatches.

I put the watch items away in a cabinet,  and didn't look at them again until recently.  Some of the watches look interesting,  including a very lovely Bulova,  that seems to have nothing wrong with it except a broken crystal.

Another one,  a Seiko,  looked to be a real basket case.  It seems to have spent a number of years in "wristwatch hell." I can't imagine what happened to it to leave it in this condition:

20241206_191855.thumb.jpg.83343c9d0995fbd539c2ca8fd0a10839.jpg

Yes,  it's a 6139-6001.  Not quite a Pogue,  since I think this is an earlier model than the watch that the Colonel took to Skylab,  but still very interesting.

The dial looks corroded,  there are no hands,  the stem is broken,  the bezel ring looks really beat up, and the crystal is badly scuffed.

And it gets worse!

20241206_191928.thumb.jpg.6536111c510508977b2e1d02d067fdd2.jpg

There is rust.  The case ring seems to be wrongly fitted so that it jams the winding weight and also prevents the case back from being screwed on.

At least I still have the case back.  A 1971 model by the look of it.

20241206_192015.thumb.jpg.1aee2d9f2e73d8d5f7385527dd40e9b8.jpg

The watch appears to have been stored in  an open box in a garden shed for a number of years before I got it.  I now have it stored in a dust proof plastic box,  but when I took it out and put it on the mat to take these pictures,  I'm fairly sure some body parts of a long-dead cockroach fell out of it. 😱

(Sorry,  I didn't think to take a picture of those,  but I am confident that they were not anything made by Seiko.)

20241206_192155.thumb.jpg.2b91fa042883fb2c304065a378c130e4.jpg

Oh yes,  one of the pushers is also missing,  and the other one is jammed.  I have bought a replacement stem,  but just the basic one,  not the one with the small wheel that operates the inner ring.

I know that parts for these are very expensive,  and original dials impossible,  so what do you think guys?

Would you say that this one is too far gone to be worth restoring,  or should I give it a try when I have enough experience to work on a chronograph movement?

 

 

 

 

Look up Seiko Pogue. Right time frame, if dial is original with water resist 70m to the right of 9, could have some value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Razz said:

Look up Seiko Pogue. Right time frame, if dial is original with water resist 70m to the right of 9, could have some value.

Being 1971 and a 6001 a lot of people call this a pre pogue but would still have some value if working even in half decent condition.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AndyGSi said:

Being 1971 and a 6001 a lot of people call this a pre pogue but would still have some value if working even in half decent condition.

I was thinking Capn Pogue's was a September '71 anything from Feb 1971 to April 1972 with sieko automatic, water resist 70m and the Suwa on the dial should be a true pogue. But the caseback 6001 is wrong and needs to be 6005...

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Just realised that looks like the wrong crown.

Thanks.   That broken stem, with crown attached,  was (loosely)  in the watch when I received it,  so perhaps it was part of a repair attempt by the previous owner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I serviced one similarly rust damaged "blue Pogue" a while ago. Fortunately the critical parts were in good condition and the chrono wheel was good. It made a good beater. Even though there's heavy rust the wheels don't often get corroded at all. I say you service the movement, relume the dial and get the missing parts. The stem with the wheel is hard to find but I think aftermarket alternatives do exist. I even made a video of mine, of course it's narrated in Finnish so it's no use to anyone. It's got almost whopping 300 views!

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Razz said:

I was thinking Capn Pogue's was a September '71 anything from Feb 1971 to April 1972 with sieko automatic, water resist 70m and the Suwa on the dial should be a true pogue. But the caseback 6001 is wrong and needs to be 6005...

The 6005 is the only true Pogue in mine and a lot of other peoples opinion as being the US variant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried to get some better pictures of the dial a couple of days ago.  Haven't been able to free it from the case though,  it appears to be stuck in place by dirt and corrosion.

20241211_164319.thumb.jpg.6536a42bd926e3e6437fa0bfd8805516.jpg

20241211_165316.thumb.jpg.41b042438a5e0fb74afc01796fa30c75.jpg

20241211_165403.thumb.jpg.1b528ee9ef4652d1e2e15ff6b511dcec.jpg

20241211_165443.thumb.jpg.9a849415f9f55affff35d5b7f05f369c.jpg

The movement doesn't look too bad

20241211_164628.thumb.jpg.7003d3e2d48558ca0f3e539922501376.jpg

20241211_164701.thumb.jpg.2827c2316ddfb46df2ef8fabe26663b4.jpg

but somebody has been very cruel to the case ring.

20241211_165024.thumb.jpg.d662890123c493b49767d96bb0bbb88f.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • And it's still running this morning, great stuff!   I'm not sure I did the 'fix' correctly after looking at a couple more YouTube videos last night - got a feeling I removed the day wheel/star but probably the quickset rather than the day finger... I couldn't find the day finger seen on that diagram above, which I think is for different variant of the 6106 - mine is the c, so incorrectly removed the wrong (but also obsolete in the build) part. As long as it behaves ill probably leave it but thought I'd mention, more as a reminder to consider it if it misbehaves in the future... Thanks for all the help as always!
    • I was finally able to get my Nikon D3500 DSLR setup to use with my microscope.  I want to thank @GuyMontag for modifying his 3D printed microscope adapter design so I could get the camera image to focus properly.  The shorter adapter did the trick.  His new design file allows for the easy customization of the height. The setup I ended up with is a F mount to M42 lens adapter, a M42 to M42 mm focusing helicoid, and the 3D printed microscope adapter to connect the DSLR to the microscope. This setup gives a much better field of view than the microscope camera, with 0.35X camera mount, setup that I was using.  With minimum zoom, through the eyepieces I get a 57 mm field of view.  Through the DSLR, I get about 60 mm FOV.  There is vignetting in the corners, but I was rather expecting that.  My goal was to get the whole movement in the FOV, which wasn't happening with the microscope camera setup.
    • Hi Tom, thank you for the speedy reply. Yeah, following the instructions it will not allow me to change any of the subdials not in position 2 or 3. As for what you tell me in position 2 while holding the reset or start stop changing crown position only changes the hour hand as for position 3 same thing happens but it also moves the minute hand as it should. Am I missing something?  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds,
    • notice my quote of me? sometimes in my long-winded messages things may be perhaps get lost. But there's a reference to the spring and the entire watch can stop which I believe you're having now? which is why when you're having a problematic running watch you do not put things on that you do not need. So for instance you can remove the bridge and remove the pinion and see if the watch will run.  the problem with this type of way of driving a secondhand is you end up with too much play between the driving gear and pinion. so basically that little tiny play in the pinion translates to the secondhand and the secondhand will drift around by quite a bit. so the spring has to provide enough force to keep the pinion in place but not to either stop the watch worst-case or reduce the amplitude down to an unacceptable amount.  
×
×
  • Create New...