I Need Help Cutting Screws!

[DJW]

I'm sure "junky" screw cutting tools means "junky" screws, but I need advice on what I should be buying and where to buy them...

 

I've bought numerous "Vintage" screw plates to aid in cutting some lever set screws that I have not been able to source at all.

 

Either everyone of the these screw plates are "Junk" and won't cut threads at all, or I'm just not doing something right! (I think it's a bit of both, if I'm honest!)

 

What type of steel wire do I use? I've been using blued pivot wire...I've even tried to anneal it to soften it up a bit.

 

Should I be spending big bucks to buy a top of the line Die for the size threads I need to cut?

 

Seems like such an easy thing to do but I'm coming up with totally unusable parts...

 

 

 

[Geo]

Pivot will definitely have to be annealed before you can cu threads, even if the die that you are using is brand new. Heat it to dull red and very slowly draw the heat source away and it should be soft enough to cut. Try filing the steel after you have done this, it should cut easily. Make sure that you taper the steel to allow the die to start cutting easily, then cut to correct length after you formed the threads. If the screw plate (die) is not perfectly sharp it's not worth having.

Just a thought, if the steel that you are using is an alloy steel rather than carbon steel, it may not respond to annealing.

[DJW]

Pivot will definitely have to be annealed before you can cu threads, even if the die that you are using is brand new. Heat it to dull red and very slowly draw the heat source away and it should be soft enough to cut. Try filing the steel after you have done this, it should cut easily. Make sure that you taper the steel to allow the die to start cutting easily, then cut to correct length after you formed the threads. If the screw plate (die) is not perfectly sharp it's not worth having.

Just a thought, if the steel that you are using is an alloy steel rather than carbon steel, it may not respond to annealing.

Thanks for your Help, Geo!

I do think, by your directions, I've been prepping the steel as it should be. But thanks for reinforcing what I've slowly figured out through trial and error.

 

As for the screw plates, I've tried to ask a lot of questions before buying these, like, "What do the cutting teeth look like?" and "Is there any signs of chipped or broken cutters?" But, always get the reply, "They look Great!"

 

So this is why I started questioning my technique as opposed to the tools themselves.

 

I believe the material is blued carbon steel, but I'm not 100% sure....I'll have to check.

 

I did locate this which seems life a pretty good deal, especially since I do have a Levin Lathe like it was specifically designed for,

http://www.watchtoolsonline.com/Screw-Cutting-Attachment-for-Levin-other-Watchmakers-Lathes-7047.htm

 

but If my approach is flawed, I wouldn't want to spend a lot more money to buy something like this and get the same results....

[Geo]

What size of screws do you require? I have a box with a lot of odd screws, if I have anything suitable you're welcome to them.

If you have not had experience cutting screws on a lathe, you may find it more than slightly tricky, especially making micro screws. Having said that, if you have a lathe and are prepared buy all the parts that you would require, then go for it. Remember that even if you cut the threads on a lathe you will probably still finish off the job by using a screw plate.

[DJW]

Probably half the Hamilton 10s movements that I acquire from various sources are missing the lever set screw. It's a 2 shoulder screw with about 4 treads at the bottom to connect to the stem set lever. Since about 99% of all American pocket watches use the negative set keyless works, it's not a commonly sourced screw for any type of watch, much less for the relatively low production runs of the Hamilton 10s movements.

 

I've made a few of them that seem to work OK, but when building watches to sell, I would rather have parts that are properly finished and not have parts that are unrefined.

 

Plus, with all the different thread pitches out there, It's almost impossible to find anything really! To make things even worse, I really don't know what the exact thread is for this screw. I've been cutting screws using a Swiss plate that is close, but not exact...

[Geo]

It looks like the lathe attachment may well be the way to go, but you would still need to know the pitch of the threads to allow you to choose the correct change wheels to use.

I do wish you all the best with your quest and it would be good to here how you get on.

[DJW]

Geo,

 

Thanks to your input, I was able to cut a very decent stem today and get some very usable threads on it! Turns out I was NOT annealing the pivot steel nearly enough... 

 

This time, I was able to get the steel a very nice cherry red and slowly removed the heat. Although, the die I used to cut the treads with is pretty much past it, I was able to get some very decent threads on it! They're a little flat, but the crown screws on very precise and seats very firm.

 

I have no doubt that this stem will work!

 

Thanks again, Geo!

[Geo]

I have no doubt that this stem will work!

 

Thanks again, Geo!

That's great that you've had some success, I'm well pleased for you!