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Timegraph Doubt


danizzz

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Hi all,

mmm, an irregular beast...maybe activia yogurt will fix it but being Asian I'm sure is a dragon and they may not like yogurt...sorry I couldn't resist!  :D

More seriously, end shake, probably from non existent lubrication or even too much lubrication and/or debris from a non clean room when assembly (accelerated wear, etc) may be the cause. I totally agree with jdm about servicing!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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When using a timing machine to diagnose watch problems there is several things you have to remember. For incoming watches the timing machine may possibly give you a clue as to what the problem is or it may give you incorrect information. Timing machine relies upon listening to the sound of the ticking watch. It has to pick up the signal clear and cleanly to display all the things correctly and do all the calculations like for amplitude. So for incoming watches that are need servicing just have to accept that the results will be different and you can’t rely 100% on exact diagnostics.

Then if you are doing diagnostics with a timing machine you should do it correctly and time in more than one position. So dial-up, dial down at least one pendant/crown position preferably four positions. This way can pickup bad pivots on both ends of the balance wheel not just one and other things can show up in the pendant positions.

So when I look at your timing machine results the amplitude seems extremely outstanding the waveform does not. So I suspect visually when you look at the balance wheel amplitude it’s going to match the waveform specifically it’s going to look really bad. Your first picture interesting in that you appear to have a repeatable pattern? Some faults in a watch will repeat themselves if you can determine the rate at which it repeats you can figure out where it is. This is sometimes an issue with the modern liquid crystal display as we don’t have enough room to look for patterns. This is where timing machines that used paper tape beat out liquid crystal displays as they have a infinite length display. But some modern timing machines will do a different kind of the time plot that will also let you look for things like this.
 

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    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
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