Jump to content

Date window removal tips/advice?


Recommended Posts

Thinking of swapping a date window out (long story short is probably OCD based!) - the one going in should fit and is bigger (on the face side - it should be the same dimensions) than the one coming out...

Is this a terrible idea, will I kill an otherwise good dial and if not are there any tips to share?

 

I'm thinking heat a little and push gently from the rear? Tiny amount of glue to fix the new one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's literally removing one date window from a dial and fitting another the same size but ever so slightly different shape, because apparently that's important to me! 

53 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

What are you trying the achieve here?

Are you fitting a new movement without a date wheel to a dial with a date window and want to blank it out?

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've lost me, you can't remove a date window from a dial, it's just a hole!!!

Edit

So I've just realised what I think you're asking about is a bubble window on a lens.

The answer is I think you'll be lucky to remove the old one without destroying
the lens so your best option would be a new lens with new bubble.

Edited by AndyGSi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

You've lost me, you can't remove a date window from a dial, it's just a hole!!!

Edit

So I've just realised what I think you're asking about is a bubble window on a lens.

The answer is I think you'll be lucky to remove the old one without destroying
the lens so your best option would be a new lens with new bubble.

Ha, no sorry if I'm not clear/using the wrong term - I mean the surround on the date window/hole... When in doubt, picture!Screenshot_20240823-2130512.thumb.png.047900d6d7f2c36b7eb657323e843157.png

Edit: it will not be removed on this watch obviously!

Edited by tIB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

I think it will all depend on the dial, if the surround is recessed and how it's fitted.

Personally I think there's too many options for failure to attempt it.

I'm pretty sure both the one it's coming off and going into are glued, though I appreciate that wisdom.

I have a similar dial I could try it with thinking about it - maybe I'll see how removal on that goes before convincing myself to stop! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

Personally I think there's too many options for failure to attempt it.

image.thumb.png.c06ff5308c6de3ab9ed0d0c817afd6a3.png

Just as a reminder this discussion is occurring in a very interesting section of the message board. This is where were supposed to be cheerful and helpful and not negative and well be quite honest a lot of times I just walk away and don't even bother because too many rules and I'm going to hurt somebody's feelings etc. etc.

14 hours ago, tIB said:

Thinking of

Always important to share your thoughts with a photograph so we grasped what you're trying to do.

14 hours ago, tIB said:

it should be the same dimensions) than the one coming out...

I'm not sure you actually going to know that until you take it out. Typically although I watch repair the word typical isn't exactly correct because it was way way way way too many variations. But as somebody else said you have a square hole in the dial the frame typically will push in so is going a little bit of a flange and probably just Glue. The markers often times will be almost riveted in place depending upon a variety of factors

As usually things like that would be the last thing on the dial as long as it's not stuck to the finish you should build to probably push it out being very very careful not to get your fingerprints all over the dial or damage anything's if you're lucky. Then you should bill a push it in and glue it would just a very tiny bit of some sort of glue

Then the best thing of all would be more photographs like to dials both of them and the backsides the dial so we can see for the future. Then if anyone else ever asked the questions we can refer them to this discussion and others can learn from whatever we learn here

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Just as a reminder this discussion is occurring in a very interesting section of the message board. This is where were supposed to be cheerful and helpful and not negative and well be quite honest a lot of times I just walk away and don't even bother because too many rules and I'm going to hurt somebody's feelings etc. etc.

I find it strange that if someone has a questionable idea and has asked

15 hours ago, tIB said:

Is this a terrible idea

that you'd rather just ignore the post than give an honest opinion at the risk of hurting somebody's feelings

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to say I really welcome AndyGSI's input in both this thread and in all the other ones he's helped me out in (thanks!) - I haven't read anything in here that's hurt my feelings or anything, so from my perspective there's good advice in here and nothing at all negative. (I don't think Andy's advice has even been classed as negative here but just in case thought I'd mention.)

The 'is this a terrible idea bit' is a genuine question as ive attempted other things that sound/seem easy but end up being really tricky, and really ruining a dial that (while relatively cheap) is 99% as I want it seems a little silly. 

Anyhow, with the window switch I'm going to do a bit of side by side without magnification to see if I'll even notice that much - if I do I'll have a play with a spare dial.

From the reverse (and other similar dials) I'm assuming both are just glued - once everything is here, if I decide to go ahead I'll have a gentle poke with a little heat and go from there... 

I'll try to take some pics and will of course update here. 

Thanks both for the input, appreciated. 

(Oh, and as an aside I'll also add that my experience as a noob here has been fantastic - I've gained some fantastic help, advice and perspective- it's a really great forum!)

 

1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

image.thumb.png.c06ff5308c6de3ab9ed0d0c817afd6a3.png

Just as a reminder this discussion is occurring in a very interesting section of the message board. This is where were supposed to be cheerful and helpful and not negative and well be quite honest a lot of times I just walk away and don't even bother because too many rules and I'm going to hurt somebody's feelings etc. etc.

Always important to share your thoughts with a photograph so we grasped what you're trying to do.

I'm not sure you actually going to know that until you take it out. Typically although I watch repair the word typical isn't exactly correct because it was way way way way too many variations. But as somebody else said you have a square hole in the dial the frame typically will push in so is going a little bit of a flange and probably just Glue. The markers often times will be almost riveted in place depending upon a variety of factors

As usually things like that would be the last thing on the dial as long as it's not stuck to the finish you should build to probably push it out being very very careful not to get your fingerprints all over the dial or damage anything's if you're lucky. Then you should bill a push it in and glue it would just a very tiny bit of some sort of glue

Then the best thing of all would be more photographs like to dials both of them and the backsides the dial so we can see for the future. Then if anyone else ever asked the questions we can refer them to this discussion and others can learn from whatever we learn here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Bonefixer said:

As a newbie myself I understood that doing anything to a dial is a terrible idea (unless it doesn’t really matter if it ends up in the bin and you’re just trying something to learn)

A lot can go wrong with a dial, a lot can go wrong with anything in watch repair, but dial finishes dont like heat or solvents or tool slips and they can be expensive mistakes. Scuse the pun but your technique needs to be dialled in before you start so it would be good to practice on something similar and not important to you beforehand.  The times  we think to ourselves "why did i start this,why didn't i just leave it alone"

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/24/2024 at 10:21 PM, JohnR725 said:

Sometimes I'm not sure what people are getting at so would you like to re-explained this to me?

Not to speak for someone but it links to what I said that was quoted after it - I'd asked if it was a bad idea and AndyGSI considered that question in his reply (is my interpretation). 

 

Edited by tIB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, tIB said:

Not to speak for someone but it links to what I said that was quoted after it - I'd asked if it was a bad idea and AndyGSI considered that question in his reply (is my interpretation). 

I hadn't seen that post but yes my point was that if someone asks a question that you think is a bad idea then
my natural response would be to answer that question and not just ignore it for fear of upsetting them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

tlb you can do this but like said until removed one does not know if it is the same size window/hole in the dial, I know too that once the windows come out they keep falling out getting tangled in the hands so seal/secure it well when finished swapping, make sure the height is the same or lower too....  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2024 at 7:34 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

"why did i start this,why didn't i just leave it alone"

Fortunately, that happens less and less these days, but it does happen, like giving that little mark on the dial a quick clean and then you've got half the lacquer on the end of your bud thinking that wasn't meant to happen!

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Appreciate the input folks - I think all things considered, while I might have a closer look at things, it's probably more likely that rather than switching things around I'll look to buy a dial which has exactly what I want already present... there is one, it's just more expensive than messing around would have been (free!). 

Edited by tIB
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, tIB said:

Appreciate the input folks - I think all things considered, while I might have a closer look at things, it's probably more likely that rather than switching things around I'll look to buy a dial which has exactly what I want already present... there is one, it's just more expensive than messing around would have been (free!). 

If you have found a dial already that fits what you want and are prepared to buy it then there isn't anything actually stopping you attempting the mod on the original. 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

If you have found a dial already that fits what you want and are prepared to buy it then there isn't anything actually stopping you attempting the mod on the original. 

That's not quite the case as it happens - in an ideal world I wouldn't need to buy the new one but I won't end up with a spare unless I manage to do some otger diao related hackery. 

I'll figure it out once I've had a proper look at things... ultimately I'm angsting over the smallest of details here and it may well be that once I've had a look I can live with it... maybe!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've taken the plunge and ordered the dial - seems silly to potentially ruin one or two others by trying to make things work, and it leaves me with a spare that I can put into something else I have (which should cover the cost should I sell it). 

 

Thanks for the help. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 8/26/2024 at 6:22 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

If you have found a dial already that fits what you want and are prepared to buy it then there isn't anything actually stopping you attempting the mod on the original. 

So I finally did this - both date windows were glued in place so I wiped with isopropyl and gently pushed from behind with a lightly soaked cotton bud. Came out OK (with a bit of marking of the face- more later).  

Spent a while messing (lightly) with a file/dremel in order to resize to fit, glued into place by holding with masking tape front side and putting a small amount of glue on a toothpick, leaving dial side down and wiping clean. 

Only issue was that a bit more isopropyl went on to the dial side when pushing it out, meaning I had to do a bit of cleaning of the dial I'd rather not have done. I also need to remove a bit of fluff I haven't managed to get with my usual tweezers. 

Otherwise, went fine enough. 

 

 

Screenshot_20241231-084200~2.png

Oh, and here's the other one - larger hole and thinner glue meant this one wasn't quite as good. Passable though...

IMG_20241231_1028002.thumb.jpg.096f567d5769010d00a6084ce1cc3265.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If possible, could you tell me the spring size of this? I have a clock of this type.
    • It all depends how much you're willing to spend and if you're happy to try the old mainspring and see what results you get with the possibility of having to swap it at a later stage. The key sizes are the height and thickness with some flexibility on the length depending on the barrel size. If you look at the likes of Cousins for springs around the GR4486 Edit There are still some GR4486 out their. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126715574424?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=126715574424&ufes_redirect=true
    • Older mainsprings look like that. The S shaped mainspring is a modern invention that is, as far as I know, better at providing the same torque across all states of wind. By modern I mean 1950-ish (someone will correct me on that I'm sure). Your old spring looks ok to my eyes: no kinks, healthy space between the coils. I'd just put it back, though others might replace it.
    • Hi All! I have an ST1686 that I am tearing down and rebuilding for my first service.  I got down to the mainspring barrel and opened it.  It was pretty dirty, so I unwound it to clean.  But it didn't look like a mainspring typically would like this stock mainspring photo from Wikipedia.  It was only spiral coiled and didn't flatten out.  I've attached a photo to accompany my poor rookie explanation. If this is abnormal, I'll need to source a replacement.  I see that the ST1686 takes a GR4486, but the GR4486 is discontinued.  I'm able to source a new old stock (NOS) spring on eBay, but what would be a good modern alternative to the GR4486 1.60mm high x .10mm thick x 300mm long x 9mm barrel diameter?  Do I look for slightly longer spring? Thinner spring?  Thicker spring?  I know the height and barrel diameter should probably need to stay the same, right? As far as the barrel goes, how do you tell the difference between the machined ridge to hold the end of the mainspring and a broken piece of mainspring that's stuck inside of the barrel?  I've attached photos of the end of the mainspring and the inside of the barrel.  I appreciate the help since I have no bearing for what "normal" looks like. Thanks for the help in advance! Dave
    • This is a very old thread and as stated by @tomh207 above it's unlikely you'll get a response.
×
×
  • Create New...