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D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

svorkoetter
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guidovelasquez WRT Addict

guidovelasquez

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:
9 minutes ago, 24h said:

I did not have any decent piezos in my lab (hard to believe...I have everything else!), so I ordered some.

you can get maybe in small toys or musical cards. they also have quartz watches with an hour indicator. They are on the back cover of the watch.

 

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svorkoetter
svorkoetter

I'm a watch DIYer, having serviced two watches myself, partially using tools of my own making. One thing I've been working on over the last few months is my own PC based timing machine. I've finally g

matabog
matabog

So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing.   sup_2.STL mic 2.STL pesa.STL sup_1.STL   the

Parrick
Parrick

Dear svorkoetter, These days with my failing eyes and ears I have given up working on watches and confine myself to pocket watches and clocks. I find that I can deal with the larger components easier

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, guidovelasquez said:

or musical cards

Yeah, something got in my head once and I bought a box of 50 Sonalert beepers.  They have three terminals (the extra is a feedback terminal) so you can make oscillators.  I tore one apart and stole the piezo.  It did not work well at all, and I think the problem was that it was pretty thick...perhaps to get a lot of output amplitude...dunno.

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24h Member

24h

Posted
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Still perfecting the final product...are the smaller ones 'more' sensitive?

Smaller ones seem to produce a "cleaner" and more accurate sound. Any size will work perfectly with TG or Watch-O-Scope but my goal was to get the best sound. As for the question of whether it's more sensitive? I'm not sure! I think the main takeaway from my testing is that if the disk is larger than the diameter of the surface that's making contact with the watch crown, you will pick up additional (unwanted) noise.

The 'pin' on my timing stand is ~6mm so I'd want to have something closer than that rather than overhang it with a 27mm disk.

Here are several recordings that compare 12mm and 27mm from two different watches. The pre-amp, and high-pass filter are the same on all files. I have not yet tried the method that Guido uses with a resistor and transistor. I think it will include even less static/noise.

https://mega.nz/file/dtYHXQqK#0cVkxw02t1NSl4VE3B0tn4pOoGLmTn3NAo5_Xx162N0

Edited by 24h
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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted
58 minutes ago, 24h said:

Smaller ones seem to produce a "cleaner" and more accurate sound. Any size will work perfectly with TG or Watch-O-Scope but my goal was to get the best sound. As for the question of whether it's more sensitive? I'm not sure! I think the main takeaway from my testing is that if the disk is larger than the diameter of the surface that's making contact with the watch crown, you will pick up additional (unwanted) noise.

The 'pin' on my timing stand is ~6mm so I'd want to have something closer than that rather than overhang it with a 27mm disk.

Here are several recordings that compare 12mm and 27mm from two different watches. The pre-amp, and high-pass filter are the same on all files. I have not yet tried the method that Guido uses with a resistor and transistor. I think it will include even less static/noise.

https://mega.nz/file/dtYHXQqK#0cVkxw02t1NSl4VE3B0tn4pOoGLmTn3NAo5_Xx162N0

I listened to them...sounds like the 27mm is saturating...at any rate, it is a greater amplitude--what I would expect with the larger vs. smaller.   I am not using the timing software, just looking at the output on my oscilloscope.  Can you show the waveforms for these to cases?  I think watch-o-scope will do that.

Another thing that one would expect.  When I modify the way I mount the piezo, I can change the sensitivity.  Less cantilever...lower amplitude.  This makes sense to me anyway.

Interesting stuff.

I will add an emitter follower and attenuate the output so that I can record it with my Tascam...on another day.

 

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timwatchcrazy New Member

timwatchcrazy

Posted
Posted
On 3/7/2018 at 4:14 AM, matabog said:

So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing.

sup.thumb.jpg.cf378a9f37323ec2f7d43d14c0f710ef.jpg

ans.thumb.JPG.8e2bfcf5a0014c2a97e64b6c70fb1a95.JPG

 

sup_2.STL 374.4 kB · 28 downloads

mic 2.STL 191.98 kB · 24 downloads

pesa.STL 311.51 kB · 23 downloads

sup_1.STL 314.24 kB · 22 downloads

 

the editables:

 

mic 2.SLDPRT 169.19 kB · 21 downloads

pesa.SLDPRT 226.88 kB · 14 downloads

sup_1.SLDPRT 234.39 kB · 15 downloads

sup_2.SLDPRT 178.4 kB · 15 downloads

ansamblu2.SLDASM 292.61 kB · 14 downloads

 

 

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timwatchcrazy New Member

timwatchcrazy

Posted
Posted
On 3/7/2018 at 4:14 AM, matabog said:

So I played a bit in Solidworks, and this is what I got. A friend of mine helped me with the 3D printing.

sup.thumb.jpg.cf378a9f37323ec2f7d43d14c0f710ef.jpg

ans.thumb.JPG.8e2bfcf5a0014c2a97e64b6c70fb1a95.JPG

 

sup_2.STL 374.4 kB · 28 downloads

mic 2.STL 191.98 kB · 24 downloads

pesa.STL 311.51 kB · 23 downloads

sup_1.STL 314.24 kB · 22 downloads

 

the editables:

 

mic 2.SLDPRT 169.19 kB · 21 downloads

pesa.SLDPRT 226.88 kB · 14 downloads

sup_1.SLDPRT 234.39 kB · 15 downloads

sup_2.SLDPRT 178.4 kB · 15 downloads

ansamblu2.SLDASM 292.61 kB · 14 downloads

 

Thank you for sharing this Matablog. Nice files, I did use 4- #10 wood screws to hold the frame and a 1/4" X 20 X 4.5" screw for the watch holder due to not being able to find a long  M6 screw. I still need to add the sensor to it. Here are some pictures of what I made. I also made a thumb screw for this as a M6 (file added Below) but ended up taping it out for the 1/4" X 20. 

Timegrapher Watch holder.jpg

Timegrapher Watch holder (2).jpg

Timegrapher Watch holder (3).jpg

M6 THUMB SCREW.stl

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wlysenko Member

wlysenko

Posted
Posted

CWRNH: Nothing I make works the first time. Time to begin troubleshooting. First thing to do is measure voltages at pins 4 and 7 on all ICs to see if they are getting the proper power. If you have a signal generator, attach it to the input and look at the output of the first stage, preferably with an oscilloscope, but a voltmeter will work. U5 getting warm is not a good sign. For me, that often means a ruined IC because of a wiring error.

LittleWatchShop: Why do you want to measure voltage with respect to the negative battery terminal and not ground?

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JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, wlysenko said:

Why do you want to measure voltage with respect to the negative battery terminal and not ground?

I'm sure that LittleWatchShop Will be around a little bit give a better answer than mine. The problem we have is that he's using a virtual ground. That's because there's only one 9 V battery it probably would've been better used two 9 V batteries and have a real ground. 

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LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
Posted (edited)
32 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

I'm sure that LittleWatchShop Will be around a little bit give a better answer than mine. The problem we have is that he's using a virtual ground. That's because there's only one 9 V battery it probably would've been better used two 9 V batteries and have a real ground. 

@JohnR725gets to my reasoning...re virtual ground.  I want to measure with respect to a known potential.  The virtual ground circuit may be the issue. 

Edited by LittleWatchShop
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CWRNH WRT Addict

CWRNH

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Measure the voltages at the pins of the LT1114 and post them here.  Measure with respect to the negative side of the battery.

When testing pins 7, Probes = Negative on Batt - , and Positive on pin 7

U5 = 8.99v, U2= 7v, U3= 7v, U4= 7V

When testing pins 4, Probes = Negative on Batt - , and Positive on pin 4

U5 = 8.99v, U2= 8.99v, U3= 8.99v, U4= 8.99v

9v exactly for input.

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CWRNH WRT Addict

CWRNH

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, wlysenko said:

CWRNH: Nothing I make works the first time. Time to begin troubleshooting. First thing to do is measure voltages at pins 4 and 7 on all ICs to see if they are getting the proper power. If you have a signal generator, attach it to the input and look at the output of the first stage, preferably with an oscilloscope, but a voltmeter will work. U5 getting warm is not a good sign. For me, that often means a ruined IC because of a wiring error.

LittleWatchShop: Why do you want to measure voltage with respect to the negative battery terminal and not ground?

I can see the signal on the scope coming from the first IC pin 6 with power off.   Same as input signal, no change, which makes sense I guess because it is a buffer.  After that nothing on the rest.  I must have the floating ground wrong.  The only change I made from the original schematic was adding c19

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CWRNH WRT Addict

CWRNH

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, CWRNH said:

I can see the signal on the scope coming from the first IC pin 6 with power off.   Same as input signal, no change, which makes sense I guess because it is a buffer.  After that nothing on the rest.  I must have the floating ground wrong.  The only change I made from the original schematic was adding c19

I do have a couple signal generators and a few oscilloscopes.  I used the mic as my input though

 

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