D. I. Y. Watch Timing Machine.

[LittleWatchShop]

On the 5534, you are using the wrong pin as the input.  It is not pin 1, but pin 2.

[LittleWatchShop]

All of your connections to the flood fill should be with thermal pads to make life easier.

Like what I show here.

[PastorChris]

Im just going to sit back and watch in awe as you folks speak about things I know nothing about.

[LittleWatchShop]

Just now, PastorChris said:

Im just going to sit back and watch in awe as you folks speak about things I know nothing about.

Yeah, this has moved from a "watch" forum to an "electronics" forum.

But, hey, there are a few guys on here that have a healthy understanding of electronics!

[LittleWatchShop]

I don't see any other mistakes.

[CWRNH]

38 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Here is one error...will keep looking

Hows this?

Edited February 7, 2021 by CWRNH

[CWRNH]

18 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I don't see any other mistakes.

Thank you

Edited February 7, 2021 by CWRNH

[CWRNH]

30 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

All of your connections to the flood fill should be with thermal pads to make life easier.

Like what I show here.

How do I do that?  Can't find in express...

[CWRNH]

25 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I don't see any other mistakes.

Should I add this capacitor also?  I didn't think I needed it.  It wasn't on the original schematic, I had added it because the data sheet for the rail splitter showed it....

[LittleWatchShop]

Yes, but plan for a bigger cap...maybe 1uF...it lowers noise

[LittleWatchShop]

thermal pad. right click on pad and then do this

[CWRNH]

52 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Yes, but plan for a bigger cap...maybe 1uF...it lowers noise

How does this look, I added C14 and used heavy traces for the grounds....?

L

[LittleWatchShop]

2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

On the 5534, you are using the wrong pin as the input.  It is not pin 1, but pin 2.

You never fixed this issue and I missed on subsequent reviews

[JohnR725]

1 hour ago, PastorChris said:

Im just going to sit back and watch in awe as you folks speak about things I know nothing about.

If you think this is fun why don't you start at the beginning..

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3002-d-i-y-watch-timing-machine/

[LittleWatchShop]

You should link the schematic to the PCB and verify each connection

[LittleWatchShop]

1 minute ago, JohnR725 said:

If you think this is fun why don't you start at the beginning..

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/3002-d-i-y-watch-timing-machine/

I did awhile back...read the entire thread

 

[CWRNH]

35 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

You never fixed this issue and I missed on subsequent reviews

I followed the schematic below....  Supposedly he got it working like this....  It is a LT1115 and he is using it as a buffer not amplifying with it.  The rest of the OP amps are 5534s.  This schematic is from a previous post several pages back...  It is a modified version of the watchOscope one.  (Which I did make last week)  I am making several difference ones to see what works best.  I am using a modified microset as a preamp right now in my diy setup which works quite well.

[CWRNH]

37 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

You should link the schematic to the PCB and verify each connection

I created the schematic in TINA which I thought wouldn't work with Express...

 

[LittleWatchShop]

6 minutes ago, CWRNH said:

I followed the schematic below....  Supposedly he got it working like this....  It is a LT1115 and he is using it as a buffer not amplifying with it.  The rest of the OP amps are 5534s.  This schematic is from a previous post several pages back...  It is a modified version of the watchOscope one.  (Which I did make last week)  I am making several difference ones to see what works best.  I am using a modified microset as a preamp right now in my diy setup which works quite well.

1 is not equal to 2.  Go back and carefully look at the datasheets for these parts and look at your schematic.

[CWRNH]

5 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

1 is not equal to 2.  Go back and carefully look at the datasheets for these parts and look at your schematic.

LOL! They are all wrong...  I swaped 1 and two on all of them..  Oh my.. LOL!!!

[CWRNH]

13 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

1 is not equal to 2.  Go back and carefully look at the datasheets for these parts and look at your schematic.

I think this might be better.

[LittleWatchShop]

Bingo

[praezis]

There is a major error in the schematic, it will never work this way  :
negative supply pins are connected to +4.5 V and +inputs of NE5534 are connected to 0 V!!

Another question, to what input are you planning to connect your preamp? Will it bear an output signal of 0.75 to 75 V_peak (theoretical - there will be clipping of course)? For what do you need that ambitious amplification of 7500x ?

Frank

[CWRNH]

1 hour ago, praezis said:

There is a major error in the schematic, it will never work this way  :
negative supply pins are connected to +4.5 V and +inputs of NE5534 are connected to 0 V!!

Another question, to what input are you planning to connect your preamp? Will it bear an output signal of 0.75 to 75 V_peak (theoretical - there will be clipping of course)? For what do you need that ambitious amplification of 7500x ?

Frank

Thank you...  Please tell me how to fix.  Looks like I have 9v at neg supply. 

UpdatedOpAmp.TSC

[praezis]

42 minutes ago, CWRNH said:

Looks like I have 9v at neg supply. 

In fact you have. I wonder if you already blew your ICs?

You should connect:
+9V to V+ pins
0V to V- pins
4.5V (TLE2426) to +In pins.

...and think about my 2nd question.

Frank

Edited February 8, 2021 by praezis