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Hi, I'm Rory, a watch enthusiast that is mostly interested in vintage watches. I am still learning basic watch repair concepts and have enough tools to do basic repairs and crude "servicing". I am also very into 2d printing and like seeing ways that it can be used in conjunction with watch repair, such as cheap custom movement holders etc. 

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    • Something that can happen with a lyre spring, the back of the arms can bind against the shoulders of the chaton cut out where the spring is fixed in when the spring is lifted out of the way. To stop the spring bending or breaking it needs pulling forward slightly before lifting so it clears the edge of the chaton.
    • One way is to file it by hand. Good file with sharp edge is needed. Another way is with the aid of milling attachment. There is one more way, thyat is really only on the lathe, but the arbor has to be attached perpendicular to the axis of the spindle. Will be easier to show pictures than to explain this.
    • giving up so soon? then the feelings of frustrations is common for all of us. At work I've requested a cannon? To be technically correct I like to get a black powder cannon as I think I be quite enjoyable to fire some of the watch movements off into the distance never to be seen again unfortunately I don't think I'm going to get my request. So yes we all have frustrations like I have a frustration with this discussion I don't suppose before you run away you could give us the size of the movement and a photograph of the dial side with the keyless parts.  as I'm still rather curious about who made this watch.
    • It wasn't a rookie mistake Nev , i should have know better with me being a joiner. After a hole another a wider bit has nothing to keep it to center and the outside of the flutes draw the drill bit in fast because of no material present. I must have done it thousands of times in timber and plastic . It was a senior moment mistake. 😄
    • Don't give up. You just need patience and practice. Don't use force or try to screw down the plate before making sure everything is in place. My first few watches took me like 45 minutes to get the train wheels in. Now it usually takes me less than a minute. Make sure that all the bottom pivots are in their respective holes before putting on the top plate. Then apply gentle pressure with a pegwood or gloved finger. Start from the barrel, 2nd wheel, 3rd wheel.... and finally the escape wheel. You can feel the plate drop each time you get a pivot in. If you experience the pivots that you have already gotten in coming out of their holes when you work on other wheels down line, you can put 1 or 2 screws nearer the barrel side in but don't exert any force on the screws. Just lightly turn the screws until you feel pressure and backoff 1/4 turn. This will prevent the plates from separating.  I use a homemade tool with a brass wire, shaped like an oiler to lightly touch the wheels to guide them into place. I find that an oiler made of hardened steel can leave scratches on the brass wheels. Once you think you have gotten all the pivots in, test it by using a blower to blow on the escape wheel. It should spin freely. Continue applying pressure on the top plate with the pegwood or finger until you lightly tighten all the screws. Don't tighten fully yet until you reconfirm that the wheels are able to spin freely. And reconfirm again after you have fully tightened all the screws. What you are experiencing is normal. All of us have gone through it. Don't work on watches when you are tired or frustrated. All of us can tell you what that leads to. But I'm sure you'll experience a few hard lessons even after reading this advice. It's only human. Go forth and practice. Good luck!
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