Seiko 5M42-0E60/69 4GM7-BA 20 mm rubber strap
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No one has posted in over a month, let's change that. Here is a nice example of the 1965 Bulova Diamond Excellency 'B' with a 17 jewel 11AL movement. I love the faceted crystal, the light play as it bounces off the facets and that diamond at 12 o'clock really adds some pizzazz. -
That, and your video, are not enough to be confident the balance is not rubbing on anything. You also seem to be testing without the pallet cock installed, so you won't detect any issue with the balance rubbing on the pallet cock. Replace the pallet cock and screw it down (without the pallet) then test the balance again. Give the balance a 180º turn (using an oiler or an artist's paintbrush) then when you release it count the full oscillations until it comes to a complete rest. You should get at least 100 full oscillations. For an 18000 bph balance that'll take at least 40s. Pay particular attention to how it comes to a complete stop: the movement should taper away to nothing; it should not come to a sudden stop. You really need to be systematic and methodical. IF the balance passes the free oscillation test then you can think about the pallet. Otherwise you'll just keep chasing your tail. -
I installed the donor pallet fork and now the watch is running, but only for 10 seconds. The lower side of the pallet fork only seems to go into the hole when I add the bridge. A visual check shows lower and upper are properly seated. I'll check the hairspring. -
I get that, but you're making unnecessary work for yourself. Resign yourself to having to give the movement a final clean and lubrication once you've fixed the problem. You probably won't need to redo the balance or the barrel in any case. The oil captured between the hole and cap jewels will still be good even if you've had it in and out of the movement half a dozen times.
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Thanks, some great advice. I have to go over the train every time I refit anything as each wheel has it's own bridge (cock?). They have a tiny amount of play so you can tighten them down in slightly different positions. This changes the gear mesh. I went through all that when I first started having issues with it. Movement works isn't fitted at the moment and nor is the seconds hand. The only reason I'm cleaning it every time is because each time I assemble it, I lubricate it. Mainly because you have to remove the balance wheel and hairspring to oil the top balance jewel. It's a pain so I always live in hope it will be going together for the last time. As the top one has to be oiled, so does the bottom one. Then I may as well do the train wheels.... I could just do the whole thing dry, but if it works, I'll still have to disassemble the balance again and it's always a risk. The hair spring is pinned, the cap jewel screws are underneath (stupid design. To be fair, the 3 separate bridges is a stupid design too). I'll play with it more tomorrow and gather some more info, pics, and maybe some video. Thanks for all the advice.
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