Gear Train

[danizzz]

Hi guys,

I found great difficulty to assembly the gear train.

Do you have a special method or sequence to mount the gears?

I have great difficulty also to mount the plate with the correct allineament of the pinions.

Help please!

[clockboy]

One method which can help is once the wheels are in place & seated correctly mount the plate with it,s location screws so the plate is in the correct position & then worry the pivots in. BUT do not tighten down until absolutely certain everything is aligned.

[Geo]

Hi Dani, you should always take plenty of pictures or sketches as you disassembled a movement then reverse the sequence for assembly. When you have all the gears in the correct place, very carefully place the train bridge on top of the pinions and apply the slightest pressure with a piece of pegwood or toothpick. At the same time carefully wriggle the gears slightly until you feel the bridge settle down evenly. At this point gently try and rotate the gears, they should be very free to turn. Now fit the screws and nip them up very lightly while continuing to check that everything is still free. Continue this process until the screws are fully tightened. A good check to see if the train is running correctly, is to blow air on the periffery of the escape wheel. If all is well this will drive the gear train, but make sure that the click spring hasn't been fitted!

If you can post up a picture of the movement you are working on, it will be easier for someone to help yo out with what goes where.

[rogart63]

Some movements are harder to align then others . It was a long time ago since i snapped a pivot . But it happen yesterday . Four wheels and one gear to the  barrel and the barrel arbor  to align . My bad i didn't remove the balance and balance cook . It's usually much easier without the balance unmounted. I set all gears and wheels and then put on the train bridge . Put in the screws and just set them so much that the train bridge doesn't fall off . Then with a toothpick or pegwood i start to align one wheel at a time . And when they are all there i can do as Geo did . Put more and more pressure on the screw until there all done . A good loupe is necessary . Looking from the underside up through the jewels . And u can see when the pivots are at the right place . And a good working lamp . 

Edited October 6, 2015 by rogart63

[danizzz]

I'm working on what I thought was an easy movement (2836) but it's very hard to make the gear train work without damage.

[anilv]

Hi Danizz,

 

I usually get the barrel and barrel bridge, followed by the train wheels and train bridge.

 

An alternative is to install the train and train wheels first, followed by the barrel. This way you can approach the wheels from 2 sides. This may not be possible for all watches (full bridges for example).

 

Anil

[clockboy]

I always install the train wheels first so I can  double check all is free without the risk of damage. Then the barrel check & again check. 

[oldhippy]

I always install the train wheels first so I can  double check all is free without the risk of damage. Then the barrel check & again check. 

As they say practice makes perfect. You will always find some trains will fit back in without fiddling around others can be sods, the trick is not to loose your marbles and go at it like a bull at a gate because if you do pivots will be broken. 

[anilv]

Hi Danizzz, what movement is this? some are harder than others..usually cheaper watches are a **BLEEP** to get back together, easiest are watches with cap jewels as the oil-sink is on the inside of the bridge so 21 jewel hand winds is what I recommend to newbies.!

 

Anilv

[danizzz]

Hi Danizzz, what movement is this? some are harder than others..usually cheaper watches are a **BLEEP** to get back together, easiest are watches with cap jewels as the oil-sink is on the inside of the bridge so 21 jewel hand winds is what I recommend to newbies.!

Anilv

The movement I'm working on is a 2836 -2

[Gingerr6]

I try and fit the seconds jewel 1st then lower and try to line up the screw holes. Most of the time the other just line up with a little luck :)

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[anilv]

Hi Danizz,

 

On the 2836 ... there is an intermediate wheel which sits under the barrel... for these movements I usually install the barel/barrel bridge first as I find the intermediate wheel tends to tumble away.

 

Once the intermediate wheel is in place..you are left with the escape, third and second wheel.. to be installed in the pivots in that order. I find it helpful to bring the movement up to eye level so I can view the wheels edge on but you need to be sure you don't drop the thing.

 

Put the bridge on top and while applying light pressure on the bridge (very light...just rest your finger on the bridge..don't press!) get the intermediate wheel followed by the third wheel in the proper holes. The second wheel usually presents no problem as well. You will be left with all the wheels in place except the escape wheel and the train bridge will still be at a slight angle with a small gap visible between bridge and mainplate..

 

While still applying light pressure on the train bridge, apply light downward pressure on the highest edge of the escape wheel... basically what you are trying to do is bring the wheel upright. I start by pushing the top of the wheel away so that the highest edge is facing me.. I then apply light pressure on the higher edge and the pivot should drop into place. Test by applying some pressure on the barrel side (there is usually a gap on the side of the barrel bridge where the barrel side is exposed) and if all the wheels spin then success!

 

Don't get too excited... if you lift you're finger of the bridge you may find the bridge will lift a little and undo all your hard work.... even if using finger cots (you are, right?).. try to expose the screw hole (roll your finger away) and get a screw started but not fully home...then roll your finger to expose the other screw..similarly don't tighten down. check the wheels still spin... tighten the 1st screw a bit more followed by the second...repeat until all are fairly tight and there are no gaps around the joint between train bridge and main plate.. final check to make sure everything is spinning wheel then tighten the screws fully.

 

Whenever tightening on pivots make sure that you constantly check... I got caught out a few months back while fitting a pallet lever.. that 'tick' sound when a pivot goes is soooooo sickening.

 

Finally... if you have been battling this for some time..put it away, clear your desk, leaving only what parts and tools you need on the desk. Get a good nights sleep, wake up fresh in the morning and start with a clean work bench and clear mind. You'll find it goes so much easier.

 

 

All the best.

 

Anil

Edited October 9, 2015 by anilv

[64americandeluxe]

For me, as a novice watchmaker (master watchbreaker), aligning the pivots in the train bridge was the hardest thing to contend with. Patience, a delicate touch, and more patience is the best advice this rookie can offer you.

Roger