Jump to content

Differnce between 2788 and 2789-1 2789?


Recommended Posts

Hello again. 

I have been lucky enough to obtain a MUDU watch, inspired by 'Gentlemen' (Thank you). It arrived and I secured the lose rotor and movement holder. Yes, that's all it needed, honest. However I wish to do the job correctly and do a full service.  I has a very good condition ETA 2788 movement.  Timegrapher - 176s,  226 degrees. 1.4ms. 52 degrees running at 21600.

I have been searching, without luck, for a 2788 pats and oiling sheet. I have the 2789, but my internet skills to not seem to be good enough. Can anyone help with a location of a download? 

I am pretty sure that I could do the service without, but preparation is the name of the game. 

Will keep you all posted with the service.

Toothache still raging. Feels like the electric silver paper shock. Only 10 or 12 times a day now. Dentist say it is a rampant nerve. 5 weeks for an appointment.

Ross

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Marc.

Thank you for the prompt reply and explanation. 

2788 Date.     2789 Day and Date.     2789-1 Day (2 languages) and Date.

You have given me the information I require. I have placed a notation of the ranfft in my favourites.

I am very conversant with the 2789 and 2789-1 so will easily be able to do the service.

20240325_170557.jpg

20240325_170617.jpg

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar, more information
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ross for parts sheets for all watches, you will find them on Cousins https://www.cousinsuk.com/document,
or another site I use is https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/files.

The oiling is as every other watch 🤣.  If you need help, see : ETA_2836-2.Asembly and Lube.pdf

One problem I've had with the automatic ETA is the reverser wheels. If you don't lubricate them correctly, the winding can be VERY stiff (or they may just be worn). I always cleaned them and made my own mix of 1/30 9010/naphtha. But I've still had problems - the last watch was very stiff to wind. So I've finally bought some Lubeta V105 - fixed the stiff winding. It's not cheap but will last ages.

 

HowtooilETAreversingwheels.thumb.jpg.aea243299cc67097413c1e13e1d3aa2c.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Done.

Had a 'ping' with seconds hand. Will redo when I find it. Crystal on order. Boxed up as I wanted to wear it.

-3s. 214 degrees Amplitude. BE 0.1 Happy Bunny.

20240331_150410.jpg

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar, more information
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Update on the Mudu

Finished the service on March 31st. Wore the watch. Decided to clean the case. Guess what? Found the seconds hand in the fold of my working box Wednesday 15 May. Phew!

Look at the difference that I can achieve. Wooho. Chuffed.

20240515_120941.jpg

Edited by rossjackson01
Spelling, Grammar, more information
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Chuffed for you too, the only thing I'm slightly surprised by is you didn't clean the case in the first place.  When the movement was out of the case, why not clean it then? 

Just questions, I really am happy for you. 

Edited by RichardHarris123
Typo again.
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Chuffed for you too, the only thing I'm slightly surprised by is you didn't clean the case in the first place.  When the movement was out of the case, why not clean it then? 

Just questions, I really am happy for you. 

Did the movement and put it in the case just to make sure I could do the service. Was not happy as I did not have the hand so did not need to finish. When I found the hand I removed it and cleaned the case. Next is the crystal. I'm still learning. 

I have received a set of sanding sticks so used them.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Don't give up. You just need patience and practice. Don't use force or try to screw down the plate before making sure everything is in place. My first few watches took me like 45 minutes to get the train wheels in. Now it usually takes me less than a minute. Make sure that all the bottom pivots are in their respective holes before putting on the top plate. Then apply gentle pressure with a pegwood or gloved finger. Start from the barrel, 2nd wheel, 3rd wheel.... and finally the escape wheel. You can feel the plate drop each time you get a pivot in. If you experience the pivots that you have already gotten in coming out of their holes when you work on other wheels down line, you can put 1 or 2 screws nearer the barrel side in but don't exert any force on the screws. Just lightly turn the screws until you feel pressure and backoff 1/4 turn. This will prevent the plates from separating.  I use a homemade tool with a brass wire, shaped like an oiler to lightly touch the wheels to guide them into place. I find that an oiler made of hardened steel can leave scratches on the brass wheels. Once you think you have gotten all the pivots in, test it by using a blower to blow on the escape wheel. It should spin freely. Continue applying pressure on the top plate with the pegwood or finger until you lightly tighten all the screws. Don't tighten fully yet until you reconfirm that the wheels are able to spin freely. And reconfirm again after you have fully tightened all the screws. What you are experiencing is normal. All of us have gone through it. Don't work on watches when you are tired or frustrated. All of us can tell you what that leads to. But I'm sure you'll experience a few hard lessons even after reading this advice. It's only human. Go forth and practice. Good luck!
    • by the way this is very confusing to me? You have a 7s26a and you're comparing it to a 7s26b which is confusing to me because they're not the same? Watch companies are rather amusing when it comes the part numbers seemingly watches with similar  numbers as you're implying should be exactly identical but in this case they are very very dramatically different for instance the 7s26a balance part number is 0310 020 the 7s26b has a different part number 0310 197 as the part numbers are entirely different there must be a reason it noticed that I made two terms in the quote above in bold regulator pins are versus the etachron  system. In addition to changing the regulation part more than likely they change the hairspring. So this would typically main you wouldn't build a swap balance completes from one type to the other because they will be entirely different. this is where looking at the technical guide might yield some amusing information. you'll note in the 7s26b  service guide it explains what the difference is. It makes a reference to the balance staff which is totally inconsequential for this discussion. But the really big difference is the A  version has conventional regulator pins and the B  has is the Etachron  system. In @Jon excellent images up above he didn't explain something? if you look carefully at the images below you'll notice that the outer terminal curve is different  as a guest to accommodate the etachron  system it looks like the terminal curve is farther out. So yes exactly as the parts list indicates the balance completes will look different because they are different. Because they are different there are not interchangeable. so basically because the letter changes at the end in this particular case we end up with two separate balance completes as proven by the parts numbers. Balance completes that are entirely different to accommodate the regulation system conceivably with entirely different characteristics of timing as they are entirely different. So your observation of the balances are different shape is correct they are different.      
    • See, the problem with widening to a little bit wider diam is that the bit will 'grab' too much at a time and will get in too fast by itself, then it will stuck and break imediatey. If enlargening from 0.3 to 0.5 needed, complitelly different drill bit must be made - it must be similar to the ones they use for weapon cannons, with one cutting edge and with angle that will not cut fast. The other option is to enlarge the hole like they do on big lathes with cutter for internal turning, that will be small enough to get in the hole The idea with the plugging could work, but I haven't try it. The pug should be only a little bit softer than the piece and must get in completelly to the botom of the hole.  
    • Thanks for all the comments. I think I'll go back to restoring BMW motorcycles and making model steam engines.  Dave
    • Yep my thoughts the same,  i realised i slipped up with the smaller drill half way through. Out of curiosity if you had to widen a hole, could it be plugged and re- drilled ? 
×
×
  • Create New...