Bergeon Platax No. 2677 How to Guide.pdf
Bergeon Platax No. 2677.pdf
In the old days, before shock protection, I’m sure replacing balance staffs was one of the most common tasks for a watch repairer. They probably replaced several staffs every day. There are many ways to remove a balance staff. One very convenient and quick method is to use a Platax tool. However, this method is considered a destructive method by some repairers, meaning you can only replace the balance staff so many times before the hole in the centre of the balance wheel will become too wide. You can read a more about it here. I guess I would think twice or trice before using use a Platax tool on a Philippe Dufour balance. Anyway, for my standard ETA, Sellita, Unitas, Vostok, etc. balances I have no reservations about using a Platax tool.
One dilemma with the Platax tool is that it has been discontinued by Bergeon (No. 2677). The offerings on eBay are few and far between, and as with everything else Bergeon, they are silly expensive. I would feel a bit embarrassed to let you know what I paid for my used copy which probably has seen hundreds if not thousands balance staffs in its life. Anyway, as with most everything else Bergeon, the quality of the tool is second to none, so I’m pretty sure I’d get my money back (if not more) should I decide to sell it in the future. That’s a major benefit with quality tools which makes it a lot easier to pull the trigger.
So, how often do I expect to use this tool? Well, as all my watches so far have been equipped with shock protection and as I expect most future watches that I’ll be working on will be as well, the answer is, not very often. As a matter of fact, I expect it to be so rare that I might forget how to use my Platax tool when I need it the next time. For this reason, I decided to document my findings and that is what you’ll find in the attached PDF document.
Do note that the document isn’t a tutorial, it is my personal notes, gathered from watching two YouTube videos (see below) and my own thinking and experimenting. For this reason, it is possible I got something backwards. If so, please let me know!
So i stumbled upon - it seems to me, a gold filled octagon rolex 26mm and I couldnt find the other information. I think the engravings on the case back say its from 1953 and its got enamel dial? It would be great if someone here was able to identify this 🙂
Hope that all are doing well - in this crazy COVID world.
I recently acquired a 1958 Rolex Ref. 6569 with a Cal. 1030 movement. All-in-all very nice and clean for her age - and runs very well.
The winding pinion and clutch wheel had worn each other out - so I found NOS Rolex parts and replaced those. I though the watch deserved the new parts.
It appeared to have been serviced in the last 10 years - because everything looked clean and the oil looked good (and present).
Since the watch seemed to be running well and in good health (other than the winding pinion and clutch wheel) - I didn't do a complete service. I didn't think it was worth the risk.
However, it seems to me that the watch is harder to wind than I would expect.
I did do a full service on a 1215 that I bought for my wife (ref. 6694). It needed everything - but an awesome running movement when I was finished.
The 1215 is of course a manual wind - but similar to the 1030. The 1215 winds lightly and smoothly as one would expect.
The 1030 is "stiff". I haven't taken the barrel apart - but have just ordered some new mainsprings.
Is there anything tricky about replacing the auto mainspring in a 1030? Or is more or less like any modern auto?
Clean the barrel; apply braking grease to wall; fit spring; fit arbor - oil lightly at spring-arbor interface; replace lid?
Also - I was only able to find a parts-list for this movement. Anyone know where a tech/service sheet (or similar) may be found?
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
I'm interested to learn the definition of a pocket and a wristwatch mainspring, in terms of dimensions.
1) What is the general height range for a wrist watch mainspring? Eg. 1mm to 2mm
2) What is the general diameter range for a wrist watch mainspring? Eg. 7mm to 12mm
3) What is the general height range for a pocket watch mainspring?
4) What is the general diameter range for a pocket watch mainspring?
5) Is the mainspring eye/hole size generally half the height of the mainspring?
Reason: I'm looking to classify them correctly for improving the rs winder project releases.
Will appreciate any help.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question. I'm currently working on an AS 1187 1194 movement which has a broken mainspring. I have a bunch of NOS mainsprings and would prefer to use one of possible. After looking into it, it seems the proper mainspring size for this movement is Denn. 6 x 11 -- 11.5
I've got ones close to that but not exactly that. So my question is, is it possible to use a mainspring with a slightly different width, strength, or length?
Is there more wiggle room in regards to any measurements in particular? (by that I mean, maybe there is no wiggle room in width but some wiggle room in strength etc)
I've attached some photos with ones that seem to be relatively close, and am wondering your thoughts on using any of them? This is for a personal project so I'm looking to spend as little money as possible, otherwise I would buy a new mainsprings from Jules Borel.
Thank you for any help you can give!
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It is very hard to see that line on my case. But the ring must be there. I attached a couple of pics. One is the top of the case - you can see that the crystal came loose on one side. I tried to get the same view you did in the other pic. Not sure if you can see it. So is it possible to push the ring out from inside? Also what is the best source for a new crystal? Thanks much for your photo!
Hello, I have a problem with my ETA2801-2. Initially the watch was running great, but it was skipping while winding. I guess I made a mistake and pulled the train bridge in order to check the mainspring, afterwards I figured that wasn’t necessary. Anyway, after putting everything back together it was running with low amplitude and became impossible to regulate to anything over -120spd. I decided to pull the bridge again, and clean all associated parts in ultrasonic, and re-lubricate. Unfortunately nothing has changed, it still runs with low amplitude - about 230 and there is no way to make it run any faster than -120spd. What could be the reason behind it? Here is how it looks like on a time grapher.