Jump to content

Explorer/ranger Homage Project


svorkoetter

Recommended Posts

I've just completed my latest project, a homage to the Rolex Explorer and Tudor Ranger. The starting point was a 36mm Alpha-branded Explorer homage, equipped with an ST-16 movement (clone of the Miyota 8215, but with hacking and hand winding).

 

post-140-0-30334200-1442365723_thumb.jpg

 

This uses the same photo-paper technique as one of my earlier projects, but with a glossy finish this time instead of matte. The dial is similar to a painted 1016 Explorer dial, but with numerals shaped more like those of the modern 14270+ Explorers. It was inspired by the Blaken Submariner.

 

The hands are vintage Tudor Ranger style, although the second hand is Explorer style.

 

I cut the luminous indices from Jessup #7550 luminous tape.

 

post-140-0-30785300-1442364972_thumb.jpg

 

It's not perfect, but it's the best so far, and I'm quite happy with it.

 

post-140-0-18609700-1442365698_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clockboy, perhaps those vintage watches that can't be restored can at least be reused by making new dials for them? Just consider them as a source of movements and cases?

 

Geo, I also hope fading will not be an issue. My previous two printed-dial projects involved many layers of lacquer on the finished dial, and that lacquer is supposed to provide some UV protection. This dial is also lacquered, but with only about four coats. On the other hand, I have inkjet-printed photos hanging on my wall that have been there for 10 years and don't seem to have faded. So between that, and the fact that I won't be wearing this watch outside in bright sun all that much, I'm hoping that fading won't be an issue. Of course if it was a Rolex dial that faded, it would be called patina, not fading. :-)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

svorkoetter, do you apply your printerd dials to an existing dial?

 

Yes, after removing the existing indices and artwork. The process, with a few differences, is briefly described in this post: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1128-been-wearing-my-latest-project-watch/?p=10217

 

As I state there, I plan to write up a detailed article about it, and in fact, I've finally started writing it. I'll post a link here when it's done.

Edited by svorkoetter
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys. Thanks for all the nice comments! The article is finally done, after close to a year of doing instead of writing: Making Custom Watch Dials
 

If I've omitted anything or something is unclear, please let me know, either here or in the comments of the article.

 

azwatchman, of course you can use my process. If I didn't want anyone to use it, I would have kept it a closely guarded secret, and changed my name to Rolex. :) ;)

Edited by svorkoetter
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...