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Looking for advice on removing the glass and bezel


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2 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Can you print a die for it?

I'm afraid not.

2 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

If not and this is just a  thought, select a  socket just wider than the bezel and fill with hot glue from a glue gun, try and rotate. Might be a terrible idea. 

Hmm... Anyway, all ideas are more than welcome. Who knows, perhaps you're on to something.

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52 minutes ago, VWatchie said:
On 2/2/2024 at 9:34 AM, Malocchio said:

have this. Great if the bezel is so stuck that a knife is no good. Kind of a spring loaded hammer.

That's an interesting idea. I'll give it a try and see if something happens. If the bezel is screwed on I guess that the worst that can happen is... nothing

Kalle Slapp used this auto punch style back remover in one of his vids. It could damage the bezel edge or the threads if the bezel is screwed on. Thing is any damage is more evident to the bezel than the back.

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A very similar Sinn with Unitas 6425. I bet the bezel is screwed on.

But for a cheaper watch like yours the screwed bezel might be to expensive to fabricate.

IMG_5816.thumb.jpeg.b6ef79defa3adab87ce5122823917b99.jpeg

Edited by Kalanag
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5 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Have you managed to remove the bezel? 

Nope. I tried to screw it off and to pray it off using a Micro-Shock Case Opener but to no avail. I'm beginning to suspect it isn't removable as there is no real need to remove it. The only reason for me to remove it would be to make it easier to polish the case, but I'm thinking perhaps it can be protected with a couple of layers of Kapton tape!? 🤔 

I've been contemplating getting a  Stanley knife as demonstrated by @Jon but not sure it is worth the risk not knowing if it indeed is removable.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a quick update to let you know I was able to satin polish the case without removing the bezel which I protected using double layers of Kapton tape. Even so, the diameter of the bezel was considerably smaller than the case so the tape was just a precaution. So, the case is looking like new again! 🙂

Now just waiting for new mineral crystals for the case and case back which seems to take forever. I think I'm done with Postnord 😠

Edited by VWatchie
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14 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Post photos , once finished.

Will do! And I hope it happens during this lifetime considering the insane long delivery times from Postnord, who have charged me double VAT despite being an IOSS order from CousinsUK. Since BREXIT the EU has been punishing Swedes doing business with Britain.

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On 2/20/2024 at 11:06 PM, RichardHarris123 said:

I would of liked to know the answer but glad it worked out.  Post photos , once finished. 

Peseux7040Regulateur1.thumb.jpg.ba2607fffa540475e1e50cbe01f16631.jpg

Peseux7040Regulateur2.thumb.jpg.692f62cf009242eebb14f7d12b26eaf7.jpg

Peseux7040Regulateur3.thumb.jpg.8f4e951dca8dd0103e2c424274c9d3a1.jpg

Peseux7040Regulateur4.thumb.jpg.c85afde665e8bbb09a37e52bd53e5dcf.jpg

The polishing worked out well. It only needed a bit of satin brushing on the sides and mirror polishing of the case back. The reason I got this watch (in dire need of a service) was because @nickelsilver spoke well of Peseux. Now this movement (Peseux 7040) probably wasn't their top-of-the-line but still performs very well after a service. No repairs (except replacing the scratched-up case and case back crystals) or adjustments were required so easy to work on. Here are the numbers.

Fully wound minus 1 hour:

Dial up:
Rate: +5 s/d, Amp.: 310°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Dial down:
Rate: +3 s/d, Amp.: 305°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Crown left:
Rate: -1 s/d, Amp.: 260°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Crown down:
Rate: +8 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Crown right:
Rate: -5 s/d, Amp.: 275°, B.E.: 0.0ms

Crown up:
Rate: -12 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.1ms

 

Fully wound minus 26 hours:

Dial up:
Rate: +4 s/d, Amp.: 265°, B.E.: 0.0ms

Dial down:
Rate: 0 s/d, Amp.: 270°, B.E.: 0.0ms

Crown left:
Rate: -6 s/d, Amp.: 240°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Crown down:
Rate: +2 s/d, Amp.: 225°, B.E.: 0.2ms

Crown right:
Rate: -3 s/d, Amp.: 223°, B.E.: 0.0ms

Crown up:
Rate: -12 s/d, Amp.: 223°, B.E.: 0.1ms

Edited by VWatchie
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  • 2 months later...
On 2/1/2024 at 8:36 PM, Jon said:

Here's a link to my cloud storage where a video of removing a Rolex bezel.

@Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!

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On 5/14/2024 at 9:56 AM, VWatchie said:

@Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!

I'll have a look for it, but don't hold your breathe. Failing that I'll make another video when another bezel needs to be removed.

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On 5/15/2024 at 2:47 PM, Jon said:

I'll have a look for it, but don't hold your breathe. Failing that I'll make another video when another bezel needs to be removed.

I put this quick vid together today when I was replacing the tropic crystal on this Rolex Oyster Perpetual.

It wasn't the greatest filming, but hey!

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18 hours ago, Jon said:

I put this quick vid together today when I was replacing the tropic crystal on this Rolex Oyster Perpetual.

Thank you @Jon, much appreciated! 🙂👍

What type of hammer are you using and is the type of hammer important?

EDIT: I reread your previous post about a brass hammer. If we use too much force, the damage will go into the hammer head rather than the watch case, right?

EDIT: I decided to see the video on YouTube and your comments were helpful. My only remaining question is how do you accomplish a "blunted blade"?

EDIT: Thinking about it I'd like to know a little more about the knife too. Had a look at Stanley's website but couldn't find a knife looking like yours. Likely no longer in production. Perhaps any sturdy knife would do?

EDIT: Had a look at brass hammers at Cousins. What weight would you recommend?

Edited by VWatchie
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14 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Perhaps any sturdy knife would do?

Yes, Mine has a support for the blade that can be safely hit like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-62841-Tradesman-Knife/dp/B0044D9MC6/ref=sr_1_37?crid=3HWJF1HL4J8D7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.X58oai8WcFho_-XqfR-lLQbU8lQKhf1vtFKAWbXR4EAhqVWR_eMy5h1DhaCULvkpA6XT0GaNFLHt_kJ0kPrhXFo0nYd8yJ4JgruoXDG9XjViAQOyAiBUkOhC9W9qQfGr0SMKpxIUrGOBkTjtTPTuM9IOTnb-dEAzbcZVvniVcEuMFGK9SITyDO6ryUU8ERkHt8f2Vy9Ks0QFO06KSJz65C2p7S3o2lOaUoO9kw61KyNtaaYYwdZzyuM2uRywODaigUn0u8RHMPR0dOa3WSrq8vE1iV5Et_561SFfvkhSGTQ.9QrdWVoCJpLVkrflNS1sxaY56ys4iiJspEFpUgLIRdg&dib_tag=se&keywords=stanley+knife&qid=1716289527&sprefix=stanley+knife%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-37

14 hours ago, VWatchie said:

Perhaps any sturdy knife would do?

I use a brass hammer. You could use a very light pin hammer. A watchmaker's hammer would be a bit too light to use. I'm not sure of the weight, but looking at Cousins, it looks like a 60 or 84g brass hammer. I would go with the 84g one. A lot of the process is about feel, so you don't damage the case or bezel. Don't twist the tool! You may think it would make it easier and quicker, but that's when the damage starts to happen and be especially careful around the lugs.

Once you have done a couple, you'll get a feel of it. Some bezels feel like they're not coming off and you start to doubt what you are doing. The trick is to be deliberate in your actions, rather than tentative. If you perform this task with the total belief that the bezel is coming off, that is exactly what will happen. First, be totally sure that the bezel comes off in the way you expect.

 

14 hours ago, VWatchie said:

My only remaining question is how do you accomplish a "blunted blade"?

Rub the blade against a piece of 400 grit wet and dry until blunt

Edited by Jon
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