Ultrasonic Cleaners

[Cad101]

Yep same here the one I have has 4 settings of a minute each up to 4 min's I just run it through twice so 8 min's total usually turning parts half way through and like 'dadistic' I also use a couple of small glass jars with cleaning solution in placed in the bath of normal tap water. Any plastic I've found clouds and degrades so don't put plastic parts in. Mine came with a free sample of SeaClean2 Ultrasonic cleaner which I have to say does a fine job but I also use lighter fuel but remember it is combustable and ultrasonic cleaners produce heat when cleaning.

 

[dadistic]

For the moment I clean in VM&P (Varnish Makers and Painters) Naptha, and rinse in Anhydrous (no water) Isopropyl Alcohol, to remove any residue and provide fast drying. I dry the parts with a hair dryer so no water condenses on them. I plan to buy some real watch cleaning and rinsing solutions soon, just waiting for the budget to catch up to the wish list. 

[matabog]

I also use naphta and alcohool. 

 

But imho this ultrasonic cleaning should be done as a final stage. The thick gummy oil and dirt should be addressed with a brush and pegwood (under naphta).

[IFELL]

Hey. One more thing about the ultrasonic cleaner. You put the parts in the beaker with the cleaning fluid and then you put it into the cleaner (which is already filled with tap water) so the beaker floods with the tap water?

Or do you keep the level of tap water lower than the beaker edge?

Thanks.

[frenchie]

Level of the water should be kept lower than the beaker edge!!

[Vich]

I have used this type of cleaner for a long time now without problems.  I use the small jam jars like the ones you get in hotels and restaurants set into tap water with the lids back on. I bought some small wire ball cages for really small bits.  For general cleaning And first wash I use lighter fluid but only the sort that is pure Naptha as some fluids have other ingredients - the side of the can should advise.  My rinse is pure Isapropanol as this leaves next to no residues. Check your fluids by putting a few drops on a small mirror and allow them to evaporate. If there is a residue this will be left on the glass use a dark cloth to wipe it to see.

I should mention that I do not use professional kit as I only ever clean in small amounts being a tinkerer/ hobbyist rather than a pro.  Buying gallons of wash and rinse along with a full machine would be pointless for me.

Also this topic is well covered in the forum if you want to do a trace. Also well covered are the warnings about not ultrasonic cleaning pallet forks with jewels attached by shellac in solvent cleaners.

Cheers,

Vic

Edited July 8, 2016 by Vich
Forgot to mention jar lids and wire cages

[systeman]

For cleaning watch parts I use Travena Safety Solvent Cleaner as a cleaner and final rinse, it's an organic cleaner. I also use it on electronic components. I leave items to dry naturally or somtimes blow dry. The manufacturers say it leaves no residue and I've found that to be the case. I've not experienced any problems, yet.

If anyone wants to try it, test it on scrap watches first to make sure you're happy with it.

[Vich]

That's a new one to me, thanks for the tip and I will look into it.

Cheers,

Vic

[AP1875]

Hi guys, i've been looking at purchasing an ultrasonic cleaner. Through searching the forums i have been lead to this thread so i thought id give it a bump instead of creating a new topic.

Since i made some big mistakes on buying expensive tools when i didn't really need to, i thought i'd ask what is the difference between these two cleaners? I can see the Elma has a heater but i don't need that as i can just use a hairdryer and also the frequency is different. The Elma is 37hz and the 7000s is 42hz, is there an ideal frequency? The one featured in this thread is similar to the James7000s. So the James is £20 and the Elma is £300 any need to spend the extra £££??

http://www.jamesproducts.co.uk/files/ULTRA-7000S.pdf

 

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/elma-e-line-low-use

 

 

 

 

[Geo]

This is the same as the one I use, but without a heater.  

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311379507558?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If you watch repair is purely hobby, this is more than good enough.  I find the heater on mine not necessary as I just fill it with water at 50 degrees centigrade and place the components in small jars with cleaner in them.  When running, the ultrasonic transducer keeps the water warm enough for the job.  Remember to pre-heat the jars of cleaner before you start by placing them in a basin of warm watter first.  

[AP1875]

Thanks Geoff very interesting. I shall definitely save my money [emoji1303].

I was just wondering (this might sound stupid) but if you place your beaker of cleaning fluid with your parts inside the ultrasonic cleaner how do the waves create agitation inside the beaker/jar? Maybe I'm missing something here...

[Geo]

The ultrasonic vibrations penetrate the glass.  Using small jars is the most economical way of using cleaner.

I think the ultrasonic leaner I recommended comes complete with basket for playing your jars in.

[AP1875]

Would you say it reduces the effectiveness of the cleaning process?

If so, I guess you have to weigh up the cost of cleaner and quality of the clean

[Geo]

I've cleaned things directly in the tank and indirectly in jars with no difference in cleaning quality whatsoever.  

For items like watch cases and bracelets, I just place them directly in the basket an use plain water.

[TimFitz]

16 minutes ago, Geo said:

The ultrasonic vibrations penetrate the glass.  Using small jars is the most economical way of using cleaner.

I think the ultrasonic leaner I recommended comes complete with basket for playing your jars in.

And what type of cleaning fluid do you use?

[Geo]

24 minutes ago, TimFitz said:

And what type of cleaning fluid do you use?

I use this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPECIAL-CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-BRASS-CLEANER-500ML-PLUS-FREE-CLOCK-OIL-/252130840529?hash=item3ab42b4fd1:g:S5EAAOSwtnpXpDvg for cleaning followed by a hor water rinse the a further rinse in isopropyl alcohol.  I use a blower to evaporate the alcohol.

[TimFitz]

29 minutes ago, Geo said:

I use this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SPECIAL-CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-BRASS-CLEANER-500ML-PLUS-FREE-CLOCK-OIL-/252130840529?hash=item3ab42b4fd1:g:S5EAAOSwtnpXpDvg for cleaning followed by a hor water rinse the a further rinse in isopropyl alcohol.  I use a blower to evaporate the alcohol.

Do you use this on watches?

[Geo]

I do.

[TimFitz]

2 hours ago, Geo said:

I do.

Can't get it here in the US, darn-it

[BUSAKAZ]

Hi folks

I need to clean a face up any idea what to use.

thanks kaz

[szbalogh]

I would take out the indices, logo and writing. Then polish the dial, repaint if needed and glue back everything.

[Marc]

I agree with Szbalogh. All of the printing is already lost so there is nothing to lose by refinishing.

The applied indices and logos all have tiny posts on the back of them which fit into holes in the dial. Carefully push them out from the back of the dial so as not to damage them or the dial. Then you can refinish the dial surface and reinstall the indices.

To be honest though this is a Constellation dial and as such it may be worth getting it professionally restored. As a redial it will never have the value of an unrestored original in good condition, but it will at least have the printing, which unless you are set up to do this properly, a DIY cleaning job will lack.

[oldhippy]

This should be professionally restored.

[BUSAKAZ]

thanks guys, do we know who could do that and how much it is going to cost.

[szbalogh]

2 minutes ago, BUSAKAZ said:

thanks guys, do we know who could do that and how much it is going to cost.

A watchmaker here let repair the dials by these italian company:

http://www.faustoperelli.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49&Itemid=57&lang=en

Edited October 4, 2016 by szbalogh