Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

I would like to revise my advice in terms of buying ultrasonic cleaners, and specifically Chinese ones:

If you are planning on using them long-term, then get a European or USA-made model. 
 

I’ve been through four Chinese models now at a cost of around £160. I limited use to 5 minutes at a time to avoid overheating and always kept the tank suitably filled. But the last one started pouring horrible smoke out the side. 
 

The British-made units last for years (eg. Walker) and will be more cost-effective long term. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, rodabod said:

I would like to revise my advice in terms of buying ultrasonic cleaners, and specifically Chinese ones:
If you are planning on using them long-term, then get a European or USA-made model. 
I’ve been through four Chinese models now at a cost of around £160. I limited use to 5 minutes at a time to avoid overheating and always kept the tank suitably filled. But the last one started pouring horrible smoke out the side. 
The British-made units last for years (eg. Walker) and will be more cost-effective long term. 

Yeah mine blew also. As I wrote many times, I do not miss having one, I get the same "cleanliness" anyway for both internal and external watch parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

I rinse in lighter fluid and isopropinal immediately after clean. 

 Balance and fork pivots/jewels get pegged with a toothpick dipped in lighter fluid, balance complete a dip in lighter fluid and blowdry with warm air.

Avgas, paint thinner for clean.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Like almost everything else in this group we've discussed this before. So I have a link all kinds of ideas and I swiped a picture out of the link to post here.

I'm using commercial watch cleaning fluids but the rinse doesn't like to dry even with a source of hot moving air. Then and you'll discover that when you go through the link I'm not using a commercial cleaning machine. One of my acquaintances recommended alcohol   which is what I'm using I'm just not using the safe alcohol. Even though the alcohol I have will dissolves shellac I just dip it in for a few seconds and then immediately into the dryer and I've never had problems.

The dryer I'm using is a hairdryer or at least that's what it's supposed to be for. The original one I had didn't get as hot as the current one. This one gets really really hot. Then I get obsessed with another or a better idea for a dryer than just leaving the parts on the newspaper and blowing air across so as you can see I modified a coffee can. The parts are raised up on the screen sometimes I'll put something on top block off most of the air and the hairdryer blows in.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/285-ultrasonic-cleaners/

drawing watch parts.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Good morning/afternoon/evening wherever you are in the world.

 

I am looking at purchasing my first ultrasonic cleaner for watch parts. Although I may only be using it once a week for now I plan to use it more often in the future and want it to last. For this reason I have neglected looking at Chinese alternatives, if you believe I am wrong for doing so please guide me in the right direction. Are heated cleaners also the better option?

 

I was going to order this 3L Durston but 1) it is out of stock and 2) I believe it is too large for my requirements...

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/durston-pro-line-commercial-use

 

My other and newly found option is this 1.5L Ultrawave. 

https://shop.ultrawave.co.uk/collections/u-series/products/u100-u100h-ultrasonic-cleaning-bath?variant=31324460318831

 

If anyone has used either of these and can shed some light on their reliability and effectiveness or can suggest another product to suit my needs please let me know!

 

Hope everyone is well ✌️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, don't dismiss chinese units. Most often, it will break if abused and my trick is to make sure to allow cooldown time between uses and don't run for more than 20 mins. It served me very well and I'm also using it from time to time.

For professional watchmakers doing it daily, it's better to buy better ones like Elma as it's built to stand abuse.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using and abusing ultrasonic cleaners for more than 30 years. I've also repaired many units for friends. I've encountered brands like Elma and L&R Quantrex, and unbranded ones like Chinese brands and Italian made ones.

The biggest problem I see with ALL brands is fluid infiltration. Ultrasonic cleaning solutions have a strange property of surface creep. It has very low surface tension and pulls itself along any surface. It is designed to penetrate nook and crannies. You can imagine what it does if it gets inside the machine. In my dental profession, we fill the whole tank with cleaning solution and pour it out after use. Any drips down the sides have to be cleaned up straight away. 

The next problem I see is overheating. Some units have very small fans to cool the inside electronic components. If the fan fails or if it get clogged with dust, the unit will overheat and burn.

Another common problem is timer failure. Electronic timers seem to be less reliable. Mechanical timers do fail too. But that's in our realm as watchmakers! 🤣

I've been using a Chinese unit for the past 5 years. The mechanical timer failed once which was solved by rebushing it.

So would I recommend using a Chinese unit? Definitely! 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/13/2020 at 5:54 PM, Orologi67 said:

I bought a refurbished Bulova Watchmaster ultrasonic cleaner.  It comes with a heated, spinning dryer with fan.  

This man in new jersey sells them.  I dont know where you are in the world though

http://www.timemachinerepair.com/refurbished-for-sale.html

Thanks for the tip

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

Looking into purchasing some sort of cleaner for my foray into horology, and I'm seeing conflicting opinions on the safety of using Ultrasonics on watch parts at all. Many posts on the net from folks in schools, or who are professional watchmakers, urging others not to use ultrasonic cleaners at any time, or risk stripping the plating (Nickel, gold, what have you) from the parts themselves. They note that parts that have been cleaned in ultrasonics in the past have a high risk of plating loss, and suggest that they would never use anything but a watch cleaning machine.

Given that even non-functional machines are running at $200-$300 on ebay, and that I really don't think my watch-repairing hobby (and my wallet) will support the purchase of a new machine, I'd love to use an ultrasonic, but don't want to destroy the plating on any of my movement parts. Not that I'll be cleaning and reassembling $30,000 Rolexes, but you understand what I mean. I'm actually interested in all of your much more experienced takes on the Ultrasonic vs Watch cleaning machine debate.

Imp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Imparatus said:

They note that parts that have been cleaned in ultrasonics in the past have a high risk of plating loss, and suggest that they would never use anything but a watch cleaning machine.

That is a unfounded believing, damage to plating can be caused by an aggressive cleaning solution and/or excessive bath times, but not U/S. In fact all makers of watch cleaning machines introduced U/S starting 50 years ago, and you can see it routinely being used by professional.
Anyway, a mov.t plating or other parts rarely need U/S action to be cleaned to perfection. If you watn to return brightness to a plated mov.t use a mild ammonia solution for a short time. The U/S is rather more useful to clean filthy cases and bracelets, although hot wather, dish sopan and brush get to the same final result. 

 

Quote

Given that even non-functional machines are running at $200-$300 on ebay,

Read few postings before your, is no need to spend that kind of money, a 1.5L Chinese unit with heather can cost between $50 and 100. You can also pesn $20 for a mini unity, even if it wont last long you won't have lost much.
That being said of the many tools needed in  watchmaking a cleaning machine is not one of the first needed. Before, you need proper solutions, a  timegrapher, a good bench opener, a pressure tester perhaps, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think moderation is the key to everything. 

I've seen crazy people in the dental industry misread the instructions on dual purpose cleaners (clean and disinfect) as needing to ultrasound instruments for 30 minutes to clean our dental instruments after use. The manufacturer actually mean soaking for 30 minutes but ultrasound for 5 minutes only.

I had to condemn many such misused ultrasound units because the bottom of the tanks actually developed holes. (30 minutes after every patient means that the ultrasound is practically on the whole day)

If you think an ultrasound is harmless, I beg to differ. Just take a piece of aluminium foil, make it the heavy duty type even, and ultrasound it for just ONE minute. Then go and count how many holes there are in your piece of foil.

If you take an even closer look, a rectangular or square tank can form standing waves, just like sound wave in a room. You'll get nodes and antinodes of sound energy. An object at a node will get blasted with a lot of energy while those in an antinode will not be cleaned properly. That's why horological grade ultrasound cleaners have baskets that revolve while cleaning to prevent nodal damage. And high end industrial ultrasonic cleaners have sweep frequency generators to prevent standing waves.

My advice for using low end ultrasonic cleaners is to allow a 5 minute pre-soak, then ultrasound for no more than 4 minutes, and rotate the glass beaker constantly. 

Am I OCD? Yes I am. 🤪

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am OCD as well. Attention to detail is fairly important in my day job. My thought was to soak the parts in small glass jars of appropriate solutions as directed or recommended, and then add a short stint in the US cleaner with, as you say, agitation and rotation of the beaker as you noted.

For my hobbyist pursuits, I don't think it's reasonable at this point to spend a ton of money on an L&R or Elma Super Elite.

Thanks for the replies!

Imp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Yes I have and I have always been very cautious with what I use the ultra for. However I also subscribe to Richard Perrett who repairs/ services high end watches and yet he uses an a ultra sonic cleaner. Not sure if he puts the hairspring through it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is Kalle saying not to clean watch parts in that type of (powerful) ultrasonic, or not to clean them with ultrasonic at all? All high end professional watch cleaning machines have been ultrasonic, with or without agitation, since the '60s. I've have never, ever, had an issue from ultrasonic on watch parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Got another one today! It took 10 weeks, but finally arrived. Fairly complete but I added the pivot guage. The burnisher and bow came with the tool. The case is a bit rough and the tool pretty dirty, but trying to decide how much I want to restore.
    • OK, so long story short, I'm working my way through Mark's courses using a "Sea-gul ST36" (or ST3600 from some vendors) AKA an ETA 6497 clone. as a practice piece.  I've had it fully appart and cleaned it, and have had it fully back together an "running", but only briefly as my oil hadn't arrived at the time.  In the course of that work, I saw no markings on the movement that would tell me if it was a true Sea-gul or just a clone of their clone of the original ETA movement. Well, fast forward to this weekend, when my oils arrived in my mailbox and I sat down to try my hand at oiling.  Everything was going swimmingly until I got to the shock setting on the top of the balance cock.  I was able to open the lyre spring without issue, but in attempting to swing the open to access the cap jewel and chaton, I apparently accidentally pressed the launch button as I sent the lyre spring into low earth orbit.  Like most things that make into such orbits it came back down at a place not too far from where it started, but of course that also means that it is no longer in the setting. So my task is now to get said spring back into setting.  What I have read so far tells me that I seem to have two options: Another thread here seems to indicate that the spring came out without taking the balance cock apart, therefore it should go back without the need for that procedure.  That seems a bit pie in the sky for me, but the posts in said thread also gave some high level information about how to get the spring back in (putting it at an angle to the channel cut in the cock and canted so that the tabs fit in the slots, followed by some "wiggling" to get it turned around the right direction.)  I've tried this a couple of times, which have lead to more trips to low earth orbit, but with successful recovery of the orbital vehicle after each trip.  This thread also suggests that what I did to cause the initial launch was to push the spring "back" with more pressure on one side than the other, which put it under tension and caused it to deform out the slot either on one side or at the end (where there is apparently no "back stop".) The other option appears to be varying degrees of disassembly of the balance cock.  Some things I've read suggest that the whole shock setting needs to come out, while other threads here suggest that I only need to remove the regulator arm and the arm carrying the balance stud.  After the last trip the spring made, this is seeming like a better option, but I'm super short on details on how to do what needs to be done.  if I am following correctly: I need to loose the balance spring stud screw so the stud is not held in the arm. I need to somehow disengage the balance spring from the regulator (all the regulators I've seen in videos look nothing like what I see on the balance cock I have.)  What I've seen on the interwebs is a couple of "pins" that the spring passes through.  What I see on my assembly is something that looks more like a single pin with a "V" shaped notch cut in the bottom of it.  The spring is secured in that notch with something that I guessed was glue, Posts here suggest that on some of these movements glue is in fact used.  So I'm trying to figure out how to tell, how to soften dissolve it (I'm guessing IPA or acetone) and how to put it back when I'm done (superglue?  UV glue?) With the spring detached from the cock, I've read that the regulator and stud carrier are basically glorified C clamps around the shock setting and that one removes them by slipping a razor blade under one side of each and prizing them up.  I assume that they go back in the reverse manner like another C clamp, but that again is only a guess.  The place I got this information from seemed to leave that bit out. Once I have one or both arms off the shock setting the above mentioned post seemed to indicate that I could just slide the spring back in the slot, though again, I'm interpolating between the lines I read.  The alternative that I've seen demonstrated on high end movements on Youtube is to remove the entire shock setting and to replace the spring from "underneath" rotating the setting so that spring basically falls into place. I'm not anxious to try this method, as I don't have a jeweling tool to put the shock setting back into place.  That not to mention that the professional watch maker who did the demonstration described "fiddly work." So at the end of the day I'm looking for a little guidance on which pathway to follow, or if I've missed something obvious, a new direction to follow.  If this is a repair that just need to wait until my skills improve I'm totally good with that, I can get another of these movements in relatively short order, I just don't want to treat this one as disposable, and I do want to make an honest effort at fixing it and learning from this experience. Thank you in advance for reading my ramblings and for any suggestions that you might have!
    • All the best, family always comes first, and I believe you have made the right call that you mother deserves your full attention. However, when you need a little outside distraction the guys here will always be available for some banter or a heated discussion on lubrication 🤣.
    • Wire for what? if it's steel then only certain types of steel can be hardened ie high carbon steels: "Mild steel doesn't harden very well. It doesn't have enough carbon. Get something like O1, silver steel or if you want to go full watchmaker, then Sandvik 20AP". Source
    • I'm wondering if there's any specific type of wire I should get for hardening? I would assume it doesn't matter as long as the wire doesn't melt before it is at temp. 
×
×
  • Create New...